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June 20, 2005
On the Road Quiz # 2
Here comes the On the Road Quiz #2
1. Consider how out of the world we & our alien-crafts must have looked to the locals, which item of our crafts do you think attract the most number of touches (more like harressments!)?
a) The Helmet
b) The Handle Bar + Bar Ends
c) Headlight
d) Saddle
e) You have something else in mind?
2. We're often asked all sorts of questions ... as much as we can understand or figure out what they're trying to put across. However, what question do you feel we'll try to avoid to give a definite answer?
3. The journey has provided many eye-openers to us, not just from the local people but as well as foreigner travellers we've crossed path. With them, we shared tales of encounter, of hardship & of wonderous moment. Before parting to resume each's journey, we often exchange contacts, in hope to keep in touch & future meetings. Guess which country do most of the travellers we've met come from.
4. We started this journey last year with a certain mindset, ideas & objectives. Gradually views, expectations & needs evolved, which outline remain; we're still on 2 bicycles & homeward headings. In our daily exchanmges with local people, what phrase/s will be the most welcome from them?
eg. Amazing! Travelling by bicycle!
5. Almost 365 days on the road, 4 seasons passed, 19 borders crossed, 9 visas collected, 4 transportation rides paid, numerous loaves of bread consumed and countless of net-cafe hours used. How much budget has been drained so far?
Yes, finally the more sensitive question. Dollars & cents are not everything in life, but can't go without either. A couple of times people have popped the query of "What if all your budgets are exhahusted?" ... hmmm ... frankily, I haven't give it much thoughts. What's your opinion?
This quiz may be the last while on the road. Get the hint?! In the meantime, more updates of the journal will be publish. Stay tune & Happy Surfing! :)
Posted by a2e at June 20, 2005 11:55 PM
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Yo Sean
Has it been a year since you left?? Time really fly...
Got your postcard when you were in XinJiang.. Thanks mate.
Am still in SPC.. though this club is nowhere comparable to the Orca days..
Hang in there in your expedition, Wish you all the best in your journey.
Josh
Posted by: Orca Josh at August 20, 2005 09:26 AM
Grrhh .. U are my ENVY .. .. seemed like a endless travelogue .. ..
Godspeed Pals ..
Posted by: Frog aka Edmund at August 10, 2005 04:36 AM
Hi Sean, SK,
Just received your postcard from New Delhi. Hope all things go well for you guys. Time passes damn fast & soon will see your return next yr. Keep it up! but don't rush back to face this concrete city so soon... take your time to see life out ther... me will stay tune on your adventure.
cheers.
Posted by: Yuming at August 8, 2005 11:08 AM
Your questions so so "chim", do know the answer to any of them..... or maybe... I am too lazy to think of the answer!
I prefer easy questions such as..... how many days are there in 28 February 2008? What a stupid question, you must be wondering! hheeehheee ;-)
Posted by: Fiona at August 5, 2005 05:07 AM
hey hey yo....
lemme try the quiz...if i get all the answers correct....can i get to win free air tix to visit u all at ya pitstops???.......hahhaaaa.......
1. ehhh....izzit ya handle bars which they all touch???....the indians must be fascinated by the ergonomically designed bar ends...hmmm....something else in mind.....i dun wanna imagine too much...hahaaaa...hope u guys din get groped!!!....hahaaa......
2. this is hard...lemme make a wild guess....izzit "how much money r u all carrying?".....i dunnoe....
3. the toughest travellers are from germany n australia.....so since u all took the road less travelled.....u must haf met lots of germans n aussies.....tell me i m rite....hahaaaa....
4. hey dudes!!! wanna rest ya butts in my house?
5. heehee.....considering that the locals offered u guys free lodging n home cooked food for most part of the journey....n even if without lodging, u guys can make do with the carpark.....so dun tink much $$$ was spent.....except for the visas, ferry rides across baltic and caspian seas and the van ride from central asia into china...the postcards n postage...emails from intenet cafes...may be u guys haf exhausted about S$3K ~ S$5K???
if budget has been exhausted...no worries...u still can cycle home.....cycling is free!!!....no need petrol....no need to set aside $$$ to buy air tix back.....however to generate $$$ for daily expenses.....u can try selling ya valuables....like digital camera...video cam...but dun sell away the memory cards....at least still keep some fotos....hehee....if not can work n travel to earn ya daily dough....work at bike shop repair bike???....be porter in the himalayas???.....be tuk tuk driver in bangkok???.....heheee.....i believe u guys can survive the toughest!!!!.....if needs any help, call home!!!!
til equator & beyond,
dunlin : Þ
Posted by: dunlin : Þ at August 1, 2005 11:23 AM
hey hey yo...
1 august 2005....n a2e turns 1 year old todae!!! it has been a year since the journey started....1 year down the road....a2e still going strong, yeah!!!n lance armstrong has won tour de france for the 7th time!!! ride strong.....live strong!!!!
til equator n beyond,
dunlin : Þ
Posted by: dunlin : Þ at August 1, 2005 10:25 AM
Hi SK and Sean, Hope you survived or avoided the recent flood that have affected Bombay.
I haven't a clue to your questions. Maybe we will post it when we organised a BIG PARTY when you return. BTW when is your ETA. can reply to me?
And for Q5, if it's in our local context, just have some peanuts, it will go a long way!More to it when you return.
Take care. Yum
Posted by: SK Yum at July 29, 2005 12:49 PM
hey sk, I was recently in sg, catching up with frog and toad... man, you have my complete admiration. *applause*.. And inspiring... i want to do something like that too!!. YOU GUYS ARE BLOODY FANTASTIC!!
someone should organize a welcome back party at the finishing line and call reporters from ST to meet u guys there... shiok.
Posted by: Kimberly at July 26, 2005 03:42 PM
1. the riders' butts! "how did their butts survived such a long journey?" ;p
2. how much weight have you put on since you started?? muahahahaha!!!!
3. hmm... Germany or Australia... or should it be Switzerland? or maybe New Zealand?...
4. come and share our table tonight.
5. well... there's always your strong butt... else just sell whatever stuff you have that you think can do without. or you can be a coolie, work in the local circus as an object of curiosity, or be an english teacher.
haiz... worse comes to worse, approach the embassy, and come home in comfort. ;p
Looking forward to 20,000km!
Posted by: Qin Mei at July 26, 2005 02:20 PM
Geez .. time flies!!! You guys are in India already ..
Let me try the quiz ::
1)e : your padded cycling tights ;)
2)where is your next stop??
3)australia .. wild guess
4)"Hello!! .. Bye Bye!!"
5)Sell your story to a publisher .. publish a e-book .. sell your photojournal to the maker of your camera .. full-monty .. .. oops betta stop before i start mentioning something abt stone-lions .. ;) .. U all entering Cambodia??
Posted by: Edmund aka Frog at July 24, 2005 05:03 AM
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June 20, 2005
15,000km Tech Talk (Strongman)
Yes! We've survived the 15,000km mark (15,479.0km to be precise), & reaching New Delhi, India, doing so. It has become mentally straining since 2 months ago with the amount of onlookers (curious, handful and never seem to be in a hurry to go about their own chores) multipling each day. The traffic ... ah the traffic! Crazy ... almost impossible, yet like the immigration officer who said to me with a smile, "Everything is possible in India".
Looking GOOD
Generally, we've increased our daily milege, covering 80km on average with 5 hours of pedalling. Basically all system are still working well, with some performing exceptionally. Thought the months of sand, rain, snow and heat, and the ugly mxiture of everything would have caused much hurt to shifting mechanism, but happy to say, the FD, RD, chainrings and sprokets have continued to deliver the shift-by-the-click standards! Thumbs up Shimano! Nonetheless, I'm missing the delights on the faces of people whenever SK showed the wonders of the dynamo front hub. Indeed, for a couple of nights we have to ride late into the night, mainly to search for lodging.
Montbell panniers (hope you haven't forgotten them) work as desired; maintaining its waterproofness & durablity. No sign of fatigue from its buckles, stiches and seams. Except for the well-wishes from our new-found friends and a small cut ... erm ... happened about a month ago, while coming down the KKH (doesn't stand for your dearest hospital!). The law of Downhill + Speeding + Pothole + Weight = Inequality of Balance, I crashed, just fell and skided on the road. Only the front left pannier suffered a 2cm cut, as the rear has the spare tyres to act as bumper. The rider was thankfully tucked behind these, leaving just the shoulder and the knee to slight bruises. Most fortunately, he was wearing his trusty Giro helmet *wink*, else who knows what his head & face will become. A word to all riders out there, "If you have a helmet, WEAR it well!"
Under Investigation
SPD has been giving off a rotation click during forward pedalling. Can't see anything unusual on the outside. Hope it's not an inside job.
Has fully replaced the 1st pair of Michelin tyres. Been riding the 2nd sets for approx. 3000km until a recent rewarding encounter in Ludhiana, India's bicycle hub. Presently equiped with brand new (I do mean brand new!) made-in-India (MII) tyres from Ralson, so far having travelled for more than 500km. Fingers still crossed. How do you feel? Take a poll under the heading 'Testing Rubber'. Reply with :
CHAPATI if you feel - Good luck! Change ASAP.
BASMATI if you feel - No problem! Better than you think.
Too much, simply too much!
Don't know if it's me & my butt or the numerous squeezy hands of the others which inflicted this wound .. sigh ... the crack seem to get longer everytime I look at it!
This poor fellow (& its twin on the other end) has taken all the stresses from the cold, hot, dust, rain and my ... powerful grip *grin*
Holding ON
This front rack has been 'repaired' by the locals in Kyrgyzstan with their methods. Looking good ... "Mr Pierce Wong, do you still recall your promise? *wink* heehee ...
In a few days time, our journey will be into the 1-yr milestone. Wow ... 365 days on the road ... how time flies ... we'll keep going with your support and techtalk shall return when we reach 20,000km mark! See you then! Happy riding!
Posted by a2e at June 20, 2005 11:51 PM
Comments
Hi SK and Sean, haven´t heared you for a long time...Still on the way? Just want to tell you to take care and keep on. You are really going to make it. I didn´t believe that in the beginning but now I can see that you are really good. Take care and bye. Misa (SHP)
Posted by: Misa at August 29, 2005 08:33 PM
Hi Sean,
I've received your beautiful postcard. Its so wonderfully thoughtful of you.
How's the butt feeling?? from the picts, they look very perky :) may be the swell are making them look so cute...
How time flies. When you all reach home? I think a home coming celebration would be proper.
Take care along your way home.
Posted by: Ivan at August 11, 2005 10:49 PM
sean,
dunnoe whether you'll see this anytime soon but take care ya? sorry that this is the first msg i am dropping for such a long time.
: )
Posted by: weishiong at July 29, 2005 12:08 AM
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June 18, 2005
I promised to do my BEST!
Once a scout, always a scout! At the Battrasi forest, we found a scout college. One of the top college in the country too! Remember your promise?!
These young men all wore scout uniform, which is quite similar to the army. However, scouting only represent a small portion of their huge curriculum. Of course, how else can they be the best with too much campings, hikings and singings *wink* These young men were very well-mannered & keen to approach us. On the other hand, they've got rules in the college hence we did not get to interact with them much.
Coincidently, a group of high school scouts from various districts had gathered in the scout training camp that night, preparing for their trekking programs the next day. Their singings, cheerings & the enthusiasm refreshed my memories of my scouting days ...... this is the scouting light of mine ....
These boys all dressed in their best, ready to set off. Keep it up! Thanks for the songs, friendship and joy you've shared! We promised to do our best!
Posted by a2e at June 18, 2005 09:50 PM
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June 18, 2005
Bridging friendship ... yet no entry without NOC!
Along the highway to Tharkot, we crossed this Friendship Bridge. The Chinese received very much likings from the Pakistanese. This firm relationship probably dates back to the planning of this highway.
In some areas, cable cars are used to bridge people instead. This is the operation cabin at one end while the other is merely an anchor. A man sits (sometimes sleeps) here, but I wonder what's his working hours ...
The cable car looks quite stable to carry both people as well as goods. What a ride it seemed. We'll maybe think about the safety, yet to the local, it's a living.
Gosh ... I'm hungry, tired, dirty and lost in the crowd.
Ah ... once again, we are saved. Tufail Mohammad is a teacher & speaks perfect English.
He introduced to us his country favourite sport, criket. Sounded like a very long and slow game.
"What! This is the hometown of our ex-prime minister?", we were surprised that the town Battagram may have such a close relationship with Malaysia.
Another proper cultivated terrace. Today we will be climbing this small hill.
Up & about, rounds & bends, as we paced up the Battrasi hills. This forest is like a natural reserve, with tranquil atmosphere & quiet roads.
And we found a police post at the top. Thankfully the man in black have decided to take us in for the night. Officer Abrar Shah serving us hot tea & sharing their dinner.
This region is a little sensitive, explained Mushtaq, the poice commando, as it borders the capital of the Pakistan controlled Kashmir, Muzafarabad.
I can't recall his exact words, but Shazaman immediately recognized us as Malaysian when we approached his teashop. With that chance meeting, came kopi & cakes :) *slurps*
At the same time, SK found that his front rack has broken apart. Fortunately, Shazaman's friend own a metal workshop. Ready in a minute!
Mr Shazaman had went to Penang & Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, for some months during 1994 as an Islamic preacher. After 10 years, he still manages Malay language fairly well. Eagerly, he recounted those days while making chapati for his customers.
"No NOC? Sorry then, no entry." We were merely 15km from Muzafarabad. Now got to backtrack over the hills .... sigh ...
Posted by a2e at June 18, 2005 09:47 PM
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June 18, 2005
With education, with hope ...
Soon after we realised that we're being followed cautiously .. keeping a safe distance ....
"okie ... good luck & have a safe journey!" the men in blue bid us farewell. Looks out we've come out of a sensitive region ... the mysterious Kohistan ... hmm ..
This German couple has been on the road for a year now (quite the same time we've started) and heading to Kashgar. They are really well equiped and were on full-suspension cycles. Way to go! Keep the spirit high!
As the highway leads further down, more greenery can be seen with field of crops and houses and villages along the mountain slopes.
In Jigal village, we met Nisar. He is a teacher & the headmaster of the public school. Here in their morning assembly, everyday the students will sing the National Athem, a poem by their national poet & recite from the Koran.
Their classrom is nothing more than a room with a blackboard and a chair for the teacher. In fact, it is a wonderful though humble beginning, a hope for a better future.
Unlike some countries, it doesn't pay very well to teach in the village, least to brag about the benefits. Nonetheless, these young teachers strive on. It's the best thing they can do for the next generation, for their country. Pass it on!
We're beginning to see many of these terrace on the slopes of the mountains. In many places, water is brought about by irrigation.
The Chinese engineer explained another usage of water equally important but probably more destructive for the nature. They're building a dam & a hydro-plant. In this initial phase, rocks from the hills are blasted away to path way e lfor pipings, roads and stuctures.
In such projects, the local authority has to be well informed and given FULL coorperation in order to get things done on schedule. Luckily for us, we happened to arrived in time for such dinner meetings :)
This China-Pak power project in Besham would last for some years to come, therefore proper housing, dinning and recreation compound have to be well factor in. By early next year, around 200 Chinese staffs will be mobilised to work here.
Mr Gan & Mr Chai, the men leading this major project. Good luck and make us proud!
Posted by a2e at June 18, 2005 09:32 PM
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« Keeping cool with Police | Main | With education, with hope ... »
June 17, 2005
Dealing with timber, grease & .... mangoes!
"1..2.....UP!" By their hardwork, these loaded the truck with thick & solid blocks of timber. I believe these are heading for Islamabad, fuelling the ever increasing demand. Anyone give a thought for the forest?
A charismatic young man, Dost, happily agreed to let us spend the night in his makeshift shelter pieced together with his timber blocks. However, the strong wind blowing in, bringing the dark cloud nearer seem to suggest otherwise.
The neighbour, Hekmat, spotted our presence and came along just in time. Indeed, as soon as we got nicely under shelter at his house, droplets fell. Dost & his gang of labourers ran off to village's mosque to take refuge. Destiny ...
The men in orange, once again we met the friendly & mighty forces of the FWO. They are proud (they have every reason to be!) to show their presence with numerous signboards along the highway. Good going guys!
Servicing the hydro-generator that produces electricity to the town of Dassu, district capital of Kohistan.
Tucked by the banks of Gilgit river, Dassu grew in vibrance & excitement ... and danger ... watch for stones and spits from the children!! :(
Fresh icy & clear water from the glaciers inevitable have to meet with the sandy greyish river flowing down to the plains.
At a tea house, we chanced upon a family from Lahore coming all the way up here to escape the heat and take a family holiday, "It's almost 50degC in our city!".
Amir Zafar runs a printing house and also deals with pharmaceutical products. Every year he'll take his family for an excursion and visit the many wonderful places his country has to offer.
Usually, they will also bring along some of the delights from their home ... mangoes! What a rewarding refreshment! Thank You!
Posted by a2e at June 17, 2005 09:21 PM
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June 17, 2005
Keeping cool with Police
As we tried asking for a night stay, the locals were quite reluctant & bekcon us to head to the policestation down the road. Indeed, the police showed up & took us away ...
Naqeeb Ahmed, the young Detective Constable, has returned from the academy to serve in his district for 2-3 yrs now. He is fluent in English & related the tense atmosphere around the Thore region to us. Seemed we're entering the territory of Kohistan *raise brow*
The officers on night duty have kindly given up their beds to us. This early morning, we were awaken, served tea and hurriedly bidded goodbyes.
One of the check-points along this stretch of the highway. Foreigners have a standard but simple registration, while for the locals, a thorough screen seemed to be in place.
At many of the valleys with a outlet of the fresh mountain/glacier water near to the highway like this have naturally gathering more people, often forming a trading market around the communities, striving with life!
Heat is ON! We devised 2 ways to beat it ... take a break under shelter, preferably at a tea house.
Else get off the cycles, park it ...
Quickly get rid of the sweaty & burning clothes ... *wink*
and take a dip in the clear & cold water rushing down from the mountains! What a Shiok feeling!
Posted by a2e at June 17, 2005 12:27 AM
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June 17, 2005
Gilgit & onwards
The city where 2 sects of Muslim clashes just some weeks ago. There was a solumn & tense setting with the military presence at all corner.
The ideal place to solve all your digital requirements! The owner meets many tourists, some like us travelling on cycles, while others like the Japanese girl on a backpack. *Woman Power!* He has even specially allocated computers with Japanese language and settings!
Spot the on under the hands of the shopkeeper? Yeh, ice-creams! Zagum has barely stepped out of his house for less than 5 mins to found us looking desperate late in the evening. The next minute we were led in. Soon, he served us dinner and then took us out for a walk with his friends around the market area. This morning, he brought us to his uncle's shop and free rounds of ice-creams for all! It's a friendly city afterall!
The bricks are made of cement? Hmmm ... anyone can enlighten us?
Continuing onwards from Gilgit, we met this Dutch couple. They are making a journey of 'Kathmandu to Kathmandu' ... that's from a shop called Kathmandu in Amsterdam to the capital of the Nepali Kingdom Kathmandu. Even with the heat, the lady has to respect and abide by the local custom/practice. Keeping going guys!
This man doesn't speak very much, but that doesn't stop him from reaching to us. He was working on his furnitures when we approached to ask for a place to rest and take our chapati. He sit us into his hall and at once asked his child to prepare tea and fresh chapati for us. He's showing us a book on Urdu to English translation.
Back to work, shaving these wooden blocks to size for a window frame.
A viewpoint where the 3 giant ranges meet, the Himalaya, the Karakoram & the Hindu Kush. Standing there, I felt a sense of inferiourity yet surprisingly peaceful & calm ...
So mighty, so majestic, don't you feel vulnerable to their willings. Can you imagine how people have survive & grow under these conditions?
To try to match the surroundings, the awesome highway weave along with impressive bridges over icy river gushing below, giving a link between the giants.
Last night these men gave us refuge inspite of the disapproval from their head office. They are from the FWO, Frontier Works Organisation, a wing of the military. Since the completion of the KKH, they took on the task of maintenance for the highway.
The day before, we had ridden long & hard, up & down, around & about. Grateful for the hardwork! These heros standing behind all the glamour. FWO, once again, we salute you!
Salam! Here are some pindi, fresh tomatoes & cucumber to go with your chapati, and melon drinks to cool down the engines!
Brief but a filling meeting with the friends of PSO (Pakistan State Oil) petrol station :) The food & drinks you've shared on that hot day have been wholly digested, though the fond memories shall stay with this photo!
Posted by a2e at June 17, 2005 12:13 AM
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« hot! Hot! HOT!!! | Main | Gilgit & onwards »
June 16, 2005
Meeting FC & Mulberry
A tourist lodge sits silently atop a village while the awesome Batura Glacier sets itself at the background together with the mountain ranges. What a perfect spot to spend the day ...
As we ply the roads down the valley, trees & vegetations sprung up along with villages. The rushing river roaring away below, echoing through the majestic landscape, at all times giving life and in a slower pace yet unstoppingly eroding downstream ... what would this be in 10 yrs times?
These men stationed in the frontline against the daunting mountains & withstanding the harsh conditions, nonetheless are surprising approachable & cheerful. We proudly salute the Frontier Constable & many 'shukuria' for the tea!
A safety net for tight-ropes walker? haha ... we're harvesting whatever is falling from the tree *wink*
Seen or even tasted these before? Sweeter than sugar I must say! These are mulberries!
A fruity reward for the teamwork. All sm:)es and strangers no more!
We came across Gulab Shah while riding down, almost passing the Jutal village. After some thoughts, he led us to his friends and all the sweets things follow. Now having dinner in his home, savouring the world of brotherhood.
After the meal, the arrangement suddenly changed. Gulab's friend Adil Khan, and leader of their tribal youth group decided to take the responsibility to provide for our night stay. This is taken at his shop the next morning.
Gulab INSISTED on offering us another round of ice-cream from his machine before we part. Can't help myself! Stay well and BEST WISHES to your business!
I had only stopped for a rinse by the stream when this young man called us to his home for some food. Wonder what he has in store for us ... is it danger?
He was eager to make friends with foreigners and let them feel at home. This place isn't always as dangerous as the outside people persist. More mulberry, peach, tea and sour-milk! Shukuria! Shukuria!
Posted by a2e at June 16, 2005 11:46 PM
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« Under the shade of Rakaposhi | Main | Meeting FC & Mulberry »
June 15, 2005
hot! Hot! HOT!!!
Hot! Hot! Hot! Pakistan is really very hot! Just 1 week ago, when we were in Islamabad, the hottest temperature at 46'C was recorded there! Elsewhere in Pakistan, temperature's climbing at >50'C! *puff*
We are now in Lahore, the historical Mogul city bordering India. Today we will be crossing into Bollywood but people have been telling us ... "India will be HOTTER!!!" haa ...
Pakistan has been a land of extremes, from snow-cladded northern regions to scorching hot plains, from conservative strict muslims to tea offering friendly locals ... etc. etc. etc.
Next stop ... stepping into the 2nd largest movie industry in the world and the world's 2nd most populated nation ... crossing from Pakistan Punjab to India's Punjab.
Stay tuned ... (even though we haven't been tuning in to this site for sometime <*blink*>)
p/s: a recent check of weather forecast - monsoons coming up north towards Delhi. Heavy floods in coastal cities. hmm ... cooler climate? wet days ahead? *scratch head*
Posted by a2e at June 15, 2005 02:29 PM
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woo hoo, finally some news. wow, not bad, closer and closer to home liao. Press on brothers! Will be praying for you guys.
Posted by: Jack Lee at July 13, 2005 01:15 PM
aiyee!!!
Finally a posting after SOOOO LOONNGGGG!!
did you try cracking an egg on your helmet and time it to see how long it takes to cook? ;p
wah, 46C is really HOT! Do take care and drink lots of fluid...
Posted by: Qin Mei at July 11, 2005 04:47 PM
Harlo xuan:
How come you guys hv been cycling so slow recently? same goes with the website updating. Bollywood? hmmm not interested in black....call it racist if u insist haahahahaha. ok see cya soon and GOOD LUCK.
Posted by: ong chor yong at July 10, 2005 09:47 AM
Hey Sean! Yo, I got your postcard! Thanks a lot pal! Bear with the heat guys, or you can bare it all for bollywwod... haa! Take care you two!
Posted by: kian ann at July 8, 2005 06:07 PM
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« Region of another Muslim sect ... | Main | hot! Hot! HOT!!! »
June 14, 2005
Under the shade of Rakaposhi
One of the many bridges along the KKH that has enable linkage & promoted developement around the isolated terrain. The buiders who made this possible years ago didn't forget to leave behind its mark.
Yeh! A whole plate of cherries! Furthermore, fresh from the tree & it's not a dream!
Singapore?! Can you guess which textbook is this? ;)
Only a few stretch before we were told that no one will take us into their house. This young man proved otherwise. Amjad was very keen to befriend us & know about our travel, so were we to hear of his living. After the cherries feast, he brought us hot tea & cakes! He even gave up his bedroom for these 2 tiresome travellers.
His father is a school teacher, while his sister like himself are high-scorer & hope to further study in either medical or engineering. It's encouraging to hear of such ambition from girls, especially in this country, where females are traditionally left out of such privileges.
More cherries to come for the new day!
Just give him a few minutes and a plateful will be ready for breakfast :)
The Dourkhan village (just below Karimabad city) is blessed with fresh water from the Ultar Glacier, nurturing the soil with wonderful weather, and a fantastic view of Rakaposhi peak.
Our friends wanted us to join them for criket & stay another night, but relunctantly we had turned them down ... sigh ... can't forgive ourselves for that.
Posted by a2e at June 14, 2005 06:48 PM
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June 14, 2005
Region of another Muslim sect ...
Little did we know, by following the boy down this track at the Gircha village, we're entering a world we knew so little of.
Mr Raza, the manager of the schools in Gupal area supported by Aga Khan Foundation, introduced us to another sect of Muslim. This region in the Northern Area are mainly populated by the Ismaili Muslim, devotees of Aga Khan. The females don't seemed to be as reserved and were eager to interact. Here we're all seated in the grand hall, solely for receiving guests.
A village tour by Maksut, his son, revealed a magical garden of clear spring water, fertile soil & lush greenery. This is a plot for potatoes, one of the fame export from this region.
Wheat is also a main crop & their staple food. Using the flow of the spring to the river, this 100 yrs old mill provide the grinding for the village. The owner, the grandson of the man who built the mill, just collects 1kg of flour for every usage.
How enchanting this place is, simply listening to the music of the flowing spring, rythm of the breeze, rustle of the leaves & songs of the birds. Due to unavailable technology, we apologise for the inability to project its realism.
History says that a Sunni Muslim used to stay in the village. This 'machit' is where that man practice his belief, sized just for one.
There were no conflict between the different Muslim, hence this little piece of history has been preserved. Recently the unique 'machit' has even undergo some rework.
In the grand hall, cotton mattresses were laid for us. Such comfy and royal treatment, indeed spoilt in a 5-star accomodation. Thank you so much!
Mountains after mountains ... can never get enough.
Smooth ride downhill all the waaaayyyyyyy.... in the end sean went too fast, too furious, hit a pothole and overturned and skidded. *ouch*
A sturdy bridge over the mighty Indus river while the majestic giants look on. How small we really are.
With proper irrigation, a green oasis like this village can be cultivated. Often projects like this has been funded by foreign aid.
Posted by a2e at June 14, 2005 06:32 PM
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« A taste of Chinese cooking in Khunjerab National Park | Main | Region of another Muslim sect ... »
June 14, 2005
Out of park, into Sost
Steep walls, loose rocks, snow & wind have caused much erosion in this stunning landscape. This major landslide has to be revived by constructing a concrete tunnel to provide a safe passage.
Endangered animals of Khunjerab, the Ibex and MarcoPolo sheep.
We found the hot spring after coming round for the 2nd time!
This marks the secret spring :)
For 2 nights since leaving the Chinese border, we went 'missing' in Khunjerab. Now it's time to set the record right ... Sost!
A small town that served as an important & the only China-Pak border crossing. Here Chinese yuan can be use freely.
The Chinese trailer drivers each held a special China-Pak passport for clearance. Here they may have to wait as long as a month for their goods to be cleared.
Posted by a2e at June 14, 2005 06:22 PM
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« Back to the Khunjerab Pass! | Main | Out of park, into Sost »
June 12, 2005
A taste of Chinese cooking in Khunjerab National Park
Weather turned for the better as we descended. The Pakistani KKH runs along the Indus river for most of its way through narrow gorges and high mountains. As we discovered later, we were not always on a downhill ride towards Islamabad.
(Pakistan ... 06.06.05 to 05.07.05)
Wu, preparing to cook beside his truck in the Khunjerab National Park. Wu and 3 other truck drivers have driven their trucks load of commodities from Urumqi to Pakistan. The KKH is meant to facilitate trade between Pakistan and China and it is these guys who drive 40' container trucks from China, across the Pass to Pakistan, Sost. We were invited to join their dinner when we met them just outside KNP. The drivers were stopping for the night there due to a puncture repair.
A taste of Chinese cooking in Khunjerab National Park (KNP) with the Urumqi drivers. All of them were well prepared for such cooking on the road, anywhere. Some had the gas burners, the salt and sugar, the disposable chopsticks and the different varieties of 'fast food'. We had a meal of spicy preserved, marinated beef with tomatoes, cucumbers, Xinjiang nan, salted peanuts from Hu-jie and Almond instant milk drink. And before this dinner, we were all trying to spot the ibex that were seen on the mountain opposite us. So much for a 'picnic in the park'!
The Park Rangers from KNP with whom we stayed overnight with. The KNP is home to several highly endangered and protected species of animals such as the snow leopard, ibex and marco polo sheeps, etc. Since the establishment of KNP, several community around has to be relocated and grazing in the park is reduced and discouraged. Every foreigner travelling through the KNP (which is on the KKH) has to pay US$4 park fees for every entry. According to the Park Rangers, certain percentage of this park fee is given to the relocated community, to assist them in sustaining their livelihood.
Riding on the narrow KKH with the rock wall that is prone to landslides on our right and the cliff that drops 500m+ to the river below, on our left.
The wreakage of a Chinese truck lies, uncleared on the river bed, a testament to the danger of KKH. We were told by the previous Chinese drivers that the driver of this fallen truck narrowly escaped death when his truck plunged into the river during an eventful night some months ago.
Posted by a2e at June 12, 2005 02:20 PM
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June 12, 2005
Back to the Khunjerab Pass!
The plan was simple. Alight at 1st check post after the Pass if we could not alight on the Pass. Stay overnight in the no man's land (we are not officially in Pakistan yet). And ride up 17km to the Khunjerab Pass. From the Zero Point, we would then start our descend down the Pass, on the KKH towards Islamabad.
Back to the Khunjerab Pass!
(Pakistan ... 06.06.05 to 05.07.05)
The 1st KSF Check Post, 17km from the Khunjerab Pass.
Staying overnight in the Commandent's room! They Khunjerab Security Force (KSF) initially rejected our request to stay at their premise and urged us to proceed on the road to Sost, >60km, the Pakistan Immigration Check Post. However, "anything is possible" with the Pakistanis (as we have also heard from other riders) and we managed to persuade and convince them to allow us a night's stay there. With the ice breaking done, everything turned out smoothly and in a relaxed atmosphere - the Commandent gave us his room, we even had a gas stove (notice the fiery flame beside SK?) to provide some warmth and we were invited to have dinner of chapati with beans. The welcome drink ... a cup of hot, soothing tea. That night, the KSF officers undressed to civilians, singing and dancing, accompanied by 2 bottles of chinese vodkas - something that is illegal to pocess at least in this part of Islamic Pakistan and something we could not capture on video or camera. It was our surprising, unexpected 1st night in Pakistan mountains. Salam Ali-khum, Welcome to Pakistan!
The KSF officers who have warmly hosted us, sheltered us and fed us.
Riding up the KKH towads Khunjerab Pass. It had in fact snowed the previous night but fortunately this part of the road was not covered by snow.
"KKH, Pakistan-China Friendship" a simple signboard on the way. Simple as it seems, it carries the deep relationship between Pakistan and China. The testament to this friendship is the magnificient feat of building the highest metalled road on which our wheels rolled.
Back to the Zero Point, start of the Pakistan KKH after 2hrs of uphill riding. It started snowing again when we reached the Pass. The only non-white things were our bicycle tracks and the KSF building. If you refer to the previous photo when we reached the Zero Point the day before (refer to 'Crossing the Khunjerab Pass'), you would see the difference after a night of snowfall.
On the Khunjerab Pass we met this group of Chinese with their 4WD. They were from Urumqi but were not the ordinary tourists. On Sean's right is the Team Leader and organiser. On Sk's left is a Pakistani KSF Officer and beside him, an experienced 4WD cross-country/dessert rally driver. He has in fact recently won some 4WD rally across the Xinjiang dessert! In addition, there were 3 ladies inside the jeep. They came on this overland trip just to swim in the ICY COLD Karakuli lake! The ladies are those athletes who trained for such extreme swimming, alike the cross English channel kind of swimmers. Hmm ... anybody game for some sub-zero swimming or dessert rally on 4 wheels??
The Chinese PLA frontier soldier on duty at the Pass. We chatted with him for sometime and he was masked all the way. Just when we decided to part, he then realised his 'masked identity'. "At least you should know who you have been talking with ... " he joked as he removed his mask.
With the Pakistani KSF on the Pakistan side of the Khunjerab Pass. The deteoriating weather did not allow us more time on the Pass. It was a pity, with the snowing, everything was white, we could not actually see anything besides the road, downhill.
OFF we go! Riding down on the wet KKH from the Khunjerab Pass (at 4700m+)
Islamabad, 800km. This is our last shot on this part of the downhill. Due to the snowing and subsequently raining that blinded our vision, we have to concentrate on the hairpin turns down the mountain ... brrr...
Posted by a2e at June 12, 2005 02:14 PM
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June 12, 2005
Crossing the Khunjerab Pass
We wanted to try negotiating with the Chinese authorities on cycling across the Khunjerab Pass from Tashkurgan, 126km away. From cyclists we have met so far, all of them told of the same story - the only way to cross the Pass from either Pakistan or China is by arranged jeep or authorised bus service, a new legislation that seemed to be effective from 2004.
Inside the Customs House, we went through the normal cross-border check - stripping all panniers from the bikes and having them screened through X-ray machines. The Customs guys were friendly and approachable. Even a few Immigration Officers came forward to chat with us, especially since we could converse easily in mandarin. The atmosphere was relaxed, the only people there were some Pakistanis and English tourists all bound for Pakistan via the state-authorised bus service that plies Tashkurgan and Sost.
We approached the Immigration Officer to ask about the possibility to ride across the Pass. One of the Officer decided to give it a try, in a bid to help us, and went into the office to enquire. However, he returned with the same story, citing security issues, remote environment, bad roads and foul weather on the mountains. The same reasons as at Torugart Pass almost applicable on this Pass. He did his best and we did not want to press on with the Officer.
After exiting from the Customs house, the bus was still there and the staffs were pressing us to buy tickets asap as it had to leave soon. The driver was complaining about the snowing at the Pass and his worries of crossing. We avoided the bus operator's staffs and approached the Chinese Army Officers there, trying again to negotiate a passage through the Pass. They declined to further comment, and that the decision and rule is firm. Finally, after making a scene at the Customs House, the Officers gave their last say - either we leave immediately with the bus, or they would void our departure stamps on the passports and chased us out of the premise!
This time, we have to bargain with the monopolised bus operator on the bicycle or "cargo" charges. In the end, we settled for US$30, much to the unhappiness of the staffs. The bus driver was getting impatient and we rushed to load the bicycles onto the bus roof.
Finally, we set off for the 4hrs journey by bus across the Khunjerab Pass ...
(Xinjiang,China ... 12.05.05 to 05.06.05)
A PLA soldier making a last passport check before leaving Tashkurgan. All authorised vehicles passing through Tashkurgan and Khunjerab would have a military personnel to escort. This guy would be in our bus throughout to ensure 'security' and no bus-hopping.
A pee-stop along the way, after almost 3hrs on the road. Actually the bus was not allowed to stop halfway. However, the young PLA soldier was asleep and some Pakistanis who could not hold their bladder any longer managed to persuade the bus driver to e-stop. Almost all the guys alighted for the much needed relief. Weather was not on our side and a sand storm was brewing in our way. Peeing in a sand storm was not something we were accustomed to! By this time, the PLA soldier had woken up and was furiously shouting for everyone to board and resume the journey. After a confirmed head count, we rolled off again.
Bad weather approaching and visibility reduced as we climbed higher. For >3hrs, the bus drove through almost dessert liked barren landscape, passing a few villages and scattered yak herding Tajik settlements. From this point onwards, we were zig-zaging up the mountain.
Driving up at snail's pace on the ripped off KKH road.
The Chinese PLA frontier post, 3km before the Khunjerab Pass. The soldier in our bus left us at this point. He would catch the next incoming jeep from Pakistan to return to Tashkurgan.
Approaching the Khunjerab Pass. The Chinese watch tower can be seen ahead. The Pass is actually on a plateau at 4700m+, sandwiched by snow-claded mountains of the Pamirs and the distant Karakoram.
800m from the Chinese border, we reached the Pakistani side, the zero-point of the KKH from Pakistan Khunjerab. We approached the Khunjerab Security Force (KSF) for permission to alight there and cycle all the way down to Sost, 80km away. However, the Officer there rejected our request and instead instructed us to seek clearance from his Commandant, 17km down the Pass.
Barely squeezing through a passage through snow caused by landslide.
Our bikes travelled in this manner for 140km, binded on the bus roof, bumped, shaken and bruised but survived the ordeal. *phew*
The bus rolling off, leaving us with our bicycles and panniers at the 1st KSF Check Post. The good news was that we were allowed to alight there, with the permission from the Pakistani Commandant! *clap*
Posted by a2e at June 12, 2005 02:05 PM
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« Back on the KKH ... to Tashkurgan | Main | Crossing the Khunjerab Pass »
June 12, 2005
Sichuan food, Japanese girl ... in little Tashkurgan
Outside "ChongQing" restaurant with 2 new Szechuan friends. Song, the 18yr old boy from ChongQing met us while we were riding around the city and brought us back to his restaurant where he's an apprentice. There, we met Chef Chen (in cap), Song's teacher, especially
experienced in southern China cuisine. He prefers southern dishes for the sweet and salty rather that the hot and spicy Szechuan ones. According to him, too much Szechuan dishes and your tongue, lips and stomach would not be good. We spent almost the whole afternoon in their restaurant where Chef Chen eventually offered us his room for our stay in Tashkurgan.
(Xinjiang,China ... 12.05.05 to 05.06.05)
Junko, a 24yrs old girl, another Japanese. We met her at the Khunjerab Customs where she just emerged, having crossed the Khunjerab Pass on a 6hrs 4WD journey from Pakistan. Junko took her
savings and started travelling from April 2004. From Egypt, she went to Africa where she has trekked and climbed the peaks of Mt.Kenya and Mt.Kilimanjaro with another Japanese girl. She even brought along a foldable bike in her travel (in pic) so as to commute easily in cities. She has been travelling alone ever since her friend left her in Africa. When she could not secure a transport down to Kashgar, we brought her back to "ChongQing" restaurant, to put up for the night in Chef Chen's room.
Song busy with cutting vegetables for Chef Chen. Already an experienced apprentice, Song however does not yearn to be a cook in the future. He wants to be a doctor ... hmm ...
In ChongQing restaurant at mid-night, with Song, Mr.Tang (the owner of ChongQing) and Chef Chen. We brought Junko there and were invited to a 2nd round of meal - Szechuan hot and spicy mixed soup, meat and vegetables. Specially cooked by Chef Chen for us, it was so spicy that we were prespiring and barely able to speak. Junko only tasted the food and kept her distance ever since. "O-ye-shi" but too spicy!!
Infront of ChongQing restaurant the morning before Junko's departure to Kashgar. Her next destination would be Tibet from Kashgar and then a short tour of South East Asia before returning to Japan.
Corn porridge and xiao-long buns. Mr.Tang urged us to have some hot food and fill our stomachs before we depart for Khunjerab. He is an avid outdoor lover and is especially enthusiastic about our cycling stint. Under the strong and sincere persuasion from Mr.Tang, we had 3 rounds of what you see in the photo! *grin* It was one of the most memorable breakfast we had, filled with so much warmth and friendship. A pity we only met Mr.Tang the night before and did not have the chance to know him more. With a breakfast too much for our tummies, and bagful of enouraging words from Mr.Tang, we set off to the Khunjerab Customs.
Posted by a2e at June 12, 2005 01:59 PM
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June 11, 2005
Back on the KKH ... to Tashkurgan
On our way back to the KKH, we visited YuSanJiang again at his meteological office. This time, we are able to witness water and temperature recordings. A Kyrgzs colleague (pic) taking water sample from the river below the office.
(Xinjiang,China ... 12.05.05 to 05.06.05)
It was another round of meal cooked by YuSanJiang with his Kyrgzs colleague. We were the 'special' guests to him and he even extended invitation to stay overnight at his room.
Out of the brick factory site, we came to this plateau where the environment was totally different - more greens, grasslands and trees with a river running through. It looks liked paradise unlike the sandy, barren landscape in the valley.
The smallest province in China, Tashkurgan and one of the highest at 3000m. The remote province does not attract many developments and heavily depend on the central government for funding. The main road that runs through the city to the Khunjerab Customs is barely 2km long.
Some of the grocery, general stores and motorcycle repair shops along the main street. Alot of mainland Chinese have been encouraged to start business there, catering to the needs of the thousands of locals, mainly Tajiks. Tourism is minimal there. Many of the Han Chinese we came across are from Henan. They commented about the remoteness, extreme climate and the difficulties of making money in Tashkurgan. Looking at the quietness of the city, one can easily understand their difficulties.
An eagle (famous in the Pamir Plateau) statue erected in the city centre. Behind lies the historical and cultural musuem dedicated to this region.
A Tajik selling "SuoYang", the same herb that Ou and Sean went picking in the valley the previous day.
Family planning with a local favour, targetted at the Tajik minorities. The minorities in this region can enjou 2~3 children per family, unlike "1 child policy" for the Han Chinese.
Posted by a2e at June 11, 2005 03:51 PM
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« Looking for a DAM | Main | Back on the KKH ... to Tashkurgan »
June 11, 2005
"Xia-Ban-Di" Dam
The valley that would be flooded after the completion of the dam in 7 years time. Work has barely started now, with the arrival of some engineers from Urumqi Water Works and other Geologists. There were only around 100 workers at that time and we were told that in the later construction stage, there can be a few thousands of people, literally turning this valley from a ghost site to a village! A small uphill path on the right leads to the KKH, the same way we have ridden in.
(Xinjiang,China ... 12.05.05 to 05.06.05)
The current, temporary brick shelter with 20 rooms built by the Szechuans for the engineers. The site lies on the foot of the hills, facing the valley that is supposed to be flooded. While the engineers stay in the quarters, the Szechuan labourers were sleeping in the tentage outside.
Engineers from Urumqi at work, making some kind of funnel that would separate the different kinds of rocks for the initial foundation of part of the dam.
Dinner with the Director and Vice-Director of the Urumqi Water Works. Mdm Zhu, the Director (lady in picture) travelled all the way from Urumqi by train and pickup with her colleague, Mr.Luo (the Vice-Director, man beside her in pic)to visit the site and her team of engineers. We actually met them while riding into the valley as they were driving out. It was back at the site when they heard about us and invited us to have dinner with them, along with their special treat that night - 2nd class protected highland river fishes called "Xue-Tun"). They had caught those fishes when they went fishing in the rivers. According to them, sale of these fishes in Tashkurgan 'black' market (illegal since protected) would fetch
~USD15/kg and the fish is only 10~15cm long! However, the atmosphere in this dinner was unlike the previous dinner(s) we had with the labourers. It was more liked eating with your boss, very business-liked atmosphere. The engineers were respectively asked to join in and in return, they repeatedly sang praises of their bosses and toasting them with alcohol (60%). The repeated praising by the humble staffs really made us very uncomfortable in the dinner. Eventually we declared in a most humble fashion of our desire to turn in for the night. *grin*
The "Xia-Ban-Di" Dam Central Command camp, about 3km from the Urumqi Water Works site. This would be the site where the dam is to be built. A plaque indicated that the dam site at 2902m (ie. where the photo was taken).
3km from the base camp, another team of Geologists from ShanXi were at work. (pic)An engineer entering a 60m hole to collect rock samples at different depths. The samples would be brought back to ShanXi for in-depth study and analyzing to ascertain the available and suitable rocks there for the construction of the dam wall. Some of the team members have been collecting rock samples for the past 3 years. In fact, according to the head of the Geologist team, study on the region for the supply of water and energy and its possible influence in climatic changes has been on-going for 20 years already!
Drilling the hole for collection of rock samples. The depth can be from 20m-60m. Crates of rock samples can be seen around the drill site. Photography was only allowed at the permission of the head of the Geologist team (who, coincidentally was an avid photographer and head of some photography club).
Workers separating the rocks of different sizes and depths.
Ou proudly displaying the "SuoYang" herb that he and Sean have picked that morning. According to them, his herb is also good for the male 'organ'. *grin* The look and shape of the herb already suggested something of that nature ... *blink*
Hu-jie making ramen (Xinjiang handmade noodles) for the 20+ Urumqi engineers. Her husband is the site doctor and she followed him there to cook for the team, and to earn extra income for their family. It was through her that we learnt of the social status difference between blue and white collar workers in present China. The engineers are considered the upper class and the Szechuan labourers are coined as the people's workers (or min-gong). She was surprised that we could stay and eat with the Szechuans and was even particularly concerned that we were not fed well enough. As such, during our 2 nights stay there, she repeatedly brought food for us, sometimes discreetly to avoid the Engineers' knowledge. Her husband even gave us free blood pressure checking during the day, just to see how healthy we were at such altitude and long period of cycling.
A family of Tajik in their traditional costumes. They bring their livestocks into the valley for grazing during the spring and summer seasons. Their house is in the valley, barely few hundred metres from the work site. In few years time, their grazing ground would vanish.
Another team of Szechuan labourers working on a piping wall for the Urumqi Engineers.
With the team of Szechuans on our departure day. They have infact finished their work there and were waiting for the salary before leaving. However, unhappiness arose when their boss returned with the news that he could not get full payment from the Urumqi authorities (even though it is state-owned organisation!). As such, the workers have to contend with only partial payment and a "I.O.U" slip for late reimbursements. Delay or no salary payment issues were quite commonly heard during our numerous interaction with the Chinese workers along KKH.
Posted by a2e at June 11, 2005 03:41 PM
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June 11, 2005
Looking for a DAM
We heard so much from our brick factory friends about the beauty of the little known valley just beyong their site. From our map, it shows a possible road connecting there to ShaChe (a town en route to Tibet). It was a little known route through the mountains, valleys, through scattered and remote Tajik villages. However, what attracted us was the DAM in construction inside the valley. In a few years time, part of the valley might be gone due to flooding for the dam. We decided to cycle 30km into the valley ... Looking for a dam.
(Xinjiang,China ... 12.05.05 to 05.06.05)
7km inside, we came to a small dam with a small scale power plant.
It was at the Meteological office there that we met YuSanJiang Abdulik, a Uygur from Kashgar stationed there. He was waken up by our knocking (Oops!) but he made no fuss and surprisingly welcomed us in for a chat and shelter from the cold. His work there is basically collecting water and temperature data daily. The data is important for
the Kashgar Meteological station to monitor climatic changes and in worst case, warnings to flood. Due to the remoteness of the place and the stagnant job, it bores him very much. Thus the sight of us in fact liven up his spirit *grin*. We conversed in mandarin and eventually stayed for lunch. (picture shown) YuSanJiang cooking polough (rice) for us. *slurps*
Lunch in the kitchen-office-bedroom of YuSanJiang. A heat generating fan (beside Sean) provided the necessary warmth for the room. Notice our overalls? it was still cold then.
A remote Tajik village along the way. Where there is green and water available, there would be some settlements of Tajiks living there with their livestock.
30km later, we eventually reached this vast open area, much liked stepping out of the narrow valley into a bigger one. We rode towards a worksite to find a friend ...
Ou (in picture beside the blue truck) is the young driver we met the day before at the brick factory. He was transporting bricks back to this work site and had repeatedly extended invitation to us to come into the valley for some "fun". Ou worked with some Szechuan labourers invovled in the construction of this temporary work site (in picture) to house the engineers from Urumqi Electric.
We got a rousing welcome from the Szechuans, especially during dinner where we were constantly urged to eat, eat, eat (typical chinese hospitality ... Eating!) and eat. Never imagine we would be able to sample such delicious HOT & SPICY Szechuan delicacies in such remote
environment. Especially with the cold, eating Szechuan dishes were even more appetising!! *slurps*
Sleeping in the workers' tent with the SzeChuans. 2 of us shared the same wooden platform bed with the foreman, Mr.Yang (left in picture). No heating stove, just layers of blankets, our long johns and our sleeping bags! The hot and spicy SzeChuan dishes provided the additional warmth in our stomachs ... *grin*
Posted by a2e at June 11, 2005 02:20 PM
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« A BRICK factory in the mountains | Main | Looking for a DAM »
June 11, 2005
Tajiks in China
The snow cladded Pamir mountains bordering China and Tajikistan. The PLA guys have to travel there for their high mountain patrols. This picture was taken just opposite the military base.
(Xinjiang,China ... 12.05.05 to 05.06.05)
The KKH, totally ripped off, reconstructed and widened.
2 young soldiers of the PLA outside the central command base in Taheman. This is a sensitive region due to the proximity to Tajikistan. These young men (only in their early twenties) have to patrol the bordering mountains, on posts situated at >5000m! According to them, they can only travel on horsebacks and mostly by foot in a day to the remote high mountain posts. Temperature on top can drop to as low as -40'C! Definitely one of the toughest military service for these young men.
Hunchem, a Tajik girl in her traditionally cap. When the Tajik woman travels out of the house, they have to wear this traditional cap with a scarf under it. Our 1st and only host with the Tajiks in this area.
We did not ride in Tajikistan but at least we managed to catch a glimpse of those who have settled in this part of China. They still retain their own Tajik language (very similar to Persian, Afghan),
a distintively different language from the Turkic group, unlike their CIS neighbours. As they have settled in China for some time already, some can speak mandarin and that became our medium of conversation.
Making 'hih-pik' (or 'nan' as the Uygurs,Kyrgys called) in the clay stove outside. Hunchem's sister-in-law is starting the fire while she is making the holes (that look like flowery patterns) on the dough.
With our Tajik host outside their house. Homestay is not easy here especially near the border area. When we approached the family the night before, they have to seek permission from the local authorities, PSB (Gong-An-Ju). We were "interrogated" (in a friendly atmosphere) by the Chinese officer and his Tajik assistance, checked the passports and eventually cleared to stay with the family, for 1 night. If we want to stay more nights, we have to approach the authorities again for permission. The locals and authorities are very cautious about the pressence of foreigners, security been one of the issue concerned.
Next rider on the KKH, meet Laura Stone from England! It was quite a funny encounter with Laura. Jeremy's (our previous French companion) friend has initially ridden with Laura from Pakistan on the KKH. Thus we have heard of 'the English woman' from Jeremy prior to meeting her. From Laura, we found out that she has in fact met Jeremy (who left for Pakistan ahead of us) on the way up the KKH in the Pakistan side! What a small world! Laura has been cycling around the Himalayas in India. At the time of meeting, she was bound for Kashgar. And guess what, we eventually met her again 2 weeks later in Islamabad ... *grin*
The Muztagta range of mountains in the background viewed from the Pamir Plateau. This area is only loosely populated by Kyrgzs and the Tajiks, with the heavy presence of Chinese PLA military camp based there.
Posted by a2e at June 11, 2005 01:19 PM
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June 11, 2005
A BRICK factory in the mountains
The beautiful erected entrance and powerful message across the board caught our attention while cycling in the narrow valley towards Tashkurgan. However, it was a work site behind this entrance (that is irrelevant to the entrance) that drew our attention ...
(Xinjiang,China ... 12.05.05 to 05.06.05)
This is the brick factory, situated just right behind the entrance. Out of curiousity and interest (*grin*), we approached the people of this brick factory for a night's stay.
Everyone from the lady boss, to some old men busy making a bed for us in one of the empty room. We were caught by surprise by at their warm hospitality and assistance. Later did we realise that the old men were also shareholders (or partners) of this brick business. Our simple bed were raised from the ground with in house bricks and the bed platform was from unused wooden doors, covered with discarded carton boxes. Very comfortable bed indeed!
Dinner with some of the management family. The Mei family originated from Northeast region of China and has settled in north Xinjiang for work. This brick factory has been the 2nd after a failure with the 1st in this area. The brick factory is the only one at this altitude, in the mountains, serving only Tashkurgan city. Proximity is the main reason for the establishment of a brick factory there. Some 200km
down the mountain in Kashgar, there are over 100 brick factories competing with one another.
Zeng monitoring the belt where the clay is been moulded from the grinder machine beside him. This process is critical to ensure no cracks on the clay before the cutting machine.
The cutting machine where the clay is been sliced into brick-liked pieces and shifted to a waiting cart.
A worker pulling the cart to the drying section before baking. Depending on weather, it would take around 7 days for the clay to dry under the sun. The cart-coolies' salaries are based on how many trips they can pull daily thus speed and timing are very important for them.
After 1 week of drying, the bricks are then taken to the kiln for baking. A worker moving the bricks to the cart rapidly as his son plays around him. Many of the workers bring along their family with them and their wives also work in the factory.
Inside the kiln where the men are stacking the bricks for baking.
A worker in charge of the kiln. The black surface he is walking on is coal and the stoves are all below. There are 3 shifts to ensure continuous burning of the kiln.
After baked, the bricks are stacked outside, ready for sale. Each brick weighs ~2kg and 1 cart (as shown) can be as heavy as 80kg! The whole process of brick making is very labour intensive in this factory, alot of hard work and long hours of working, much dependent on availability of sunshine and the weather. In the mountains, everything is unpredictable and it makes it even harder for them
to earn money.
Stacking bricks onto a truck bound for Tashkurgan. The proximity to the city (11km) allows for cheaper bricks to be sold there. Initially the bricks used to come from Kashgar around, thus the transportation costs up the mountains made the bricks too expensive. However, not all sites are suitable for brick factories. Their 1st brick factory was situated some 40km after Tashkurgan city. Unfortunately, the soil quality was unsuitable to make bricks. It was a big loss for the Mei family then and they are trying to recuperate the losses from this barely 1 year factory. Due to the mountain conditions and weather, they can only work from March to October, before the snow comes.
During the winter period, the labourers would have to find employment elsewhere to earn a living. Many opt not to travel back to villages in Szechuan or Yunnan due to the extra transportation costs.
2 Chinese motorists outside the brick factory. They have travelled from Urumqi, some 1500km away and are bound for Tashkurgan. Both are professional photographers with a passion for outdoors and adventure.
The trip for them was partly adventure and photography, penetrating little known areas of southern Xinjiang and shooting.
Off they go, towards Tashkurgan, with the Pamir mountains in the background. Looking at them as they vanished down the road, we do envy them for having such a natural beauty right at their doorstep. However, not many of them are travelling beyond their doorsteps to discover this beauty.
Posted by a2e at June 11, 2005 12:56 PM
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June 10, 2005
3900m a.s.l. on the KKH
The 1st cycle-tourists we meet on the KKH so far, Robert and Dagmar are from Bern, Switzerland where they started. From there, they have crossed Uzbekistan, riden 6-mths in India, Pakistan and were heading to Kashgar at the time of meeting. They intend to cycle to Beijing and then take the Trans-Siberia railway to Moscow. From Moscow, they intend to cycle down the Baltic states to home in Switzerland. 8-)
(Xinjiang,China ... 12.05.05 to 05.06.05)
Welcome to Tajik Tashkurgan Autonomous County. This is the highest pass at ~4100m on the KKH (after the Khunjerab Pass). We are now stepping into the land of the Tajik minorities in this extreme southwestern part of China. The altitude and location make this the most remote region and one of the highest 'city' in China (besides Tibet).
"Ko-ni-chi-wa!" Barely 5km from the pass, we met Hiro and Nana at a Chinese road works tentage. The Japanese couple has been on the road for 5 years already! They initially started backpacking from Korea, around Asia, Southeast Asia and Africa for 4 years. It was in Thailand last year that they bought 2 Merida mountainbikes and started cycling in India, Pakistan and this part of China. They were heading to Kashgar at the time of our meeting and plan to travel to Qinghai where they would board ferry to Shimonoseki, Japan.
The majestic Muztagta Peak, 7546m, just a "stone's throw" away from the tentage. With the blessing of beautiful weather, we have the most impressive and magnificient view of the surrounding peaks.
Dinner with the Chinese workers from Henan. This is the highest worksite on the KKH at ~3900m. They are contracted to build 1 bridge and 27 drainages for this stretch of the KKH. We stayed overnight, together with Hiro and Nana with the workers at the campsite.
Heavy snowfall in the night resulted in this blanket of 'ice-cream-liked' snow around the campsite. Though it was a beautiful sight, the snowing was causing worries to the workers as they were running out of time. Nobody likes staying in this remote, cold environment but the unpredictable weather did not help. For us, however, it was and would be our last chance of snow in this leg of cycling. Imagine waking up in the morning, opening the tent flap and you are greeted with this lovely sight - bright and sunny sky, cotton-liked clouds in
the clear blue sky and this pin drop silence ... take a minute to breathe in ... the fresh mountain air ... ahhhh ...
Cooking with pressure stove. Due to the high pressure here, cooking rice is done with this kind of pressure cooker.
By late morning, the snow has melted, as fast as they came, they have disappeared. Our Japanese friends also left for the descend to Kashgar.
A few hours later, another cycle-tourist on the road! Peter's an Australian who has cycled from Pakistan on the kKH. This is his 2nd ride on the KKH and this time, he plans to ride to Lhasa, Tibet and into Kathmandu, Nepal. A veteran rider, he has also riden in eastern Malaysia states of Sabah and Sarawak before! sigh ... we should seriously look at our own backyard ... *grin* (at the time of
writing, Peter's already back in Tasmania, Australia)
With the good weather backing us, we walked over to see the Muztagta Peak from the campsite with Yang. Only 1 1/2hr of walking and the majestic peak loomed infront of us, in full view. Unbelievable!
It was really rare to see the Muztagta peak from so near!
The bridge in construction at the campsite. Work has been disrupted due to the weather and the intervention of the road works authorities. The "Inspectors" had claimed several discrepancies on
the work and demanded re-work and penalties. The boss was already suffering losses due to this and the workers feared that they might not even be paid for work! Coming from so far to work on this
remote site and yet not earning the money, one can easily sympathise with their frustrations.
With our Henan friends before departure. Weather was so unpredictable that it was sunshine and snowing the next moment. We have to grab the chance when possible and embarked on our journey anytime, even though our friends repeatedly urged us to stay for another night(s) ...
Posted by a2e at June 10, 2005 09:55 PM
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June 10, 2005
Road works Contractors on KKH
Stunning landscape on the KKH. The serenity after the previous day of snowing was remarkable, simply mind-blowing!
(Xinjiang,China ... 12.05.05 to 05.06.05)
On the well paved KKH, in the mountains!
The paved KKH road ended in Bulunkur. We approached the road works contractors there for the night. The workers (mostly excavators and drivers) were working 12 hours a day, catching as much work as possible in the available daytime. Most of them were 2nd or 3rd generation Han Chinese born and living in Kashgar.
Some of the workers stayed in tentage erected temporary to house them during the road works. There were very strict requirements by the state to make sure proper display of warning and road works indicators on the road, such as the one behind our bicycles.
With our friends from the road works. The water tank belonged to the big guy in army uniform. It was a surprise to hear from these people about Singapore drama serials, such as "Wu-suo-Nanyang".
One of the "3 Heroes in the Kunlun mountains", Kongur Peak (>7000m a.s.l.) as seen from Bulungkur.
The entrance to Kalakuli lake
A glacier lake in the Pamir plateau, Kalakuli has been linked with myths and legends since the ancient times. It is surrounded by moraine hills. East of the lake lies the 3 Heroes of Kunlun mountains - Muztagta Peak, Kongur Peak and Kongur Tobe Peak.
Another night with the road works contractors. After Kalakuli lake, we came to a cement slabs work site where the Sichuan boss, Mr.Zhang warmly welcomed our stay for the night. Dinner was again hot and spicy as the pepper is known as the main ingredient in Sichuan food.
Guess what we have been offered for dinner ... hot and spicy DOG meat! The dog was bought from a Kyrgzs family days before. I don't know whether it was the spices or the dog meat but the meal brought warmth and perspiration!
A worker flattening the cement and making sure of the even spread. The State authorities were especially particularly with the quality of work and quality of products produced. A mistake or negligence could end up with heavy penalties from the authorities.
The Sichuan workers making cement slabs for the roads. These workers under Mr.Zhang all came from Sichuan and have been contracted to work certain stretch of the KKH rebuilt.
Posted by a2e at June 10, 2005 09:45 PM
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June 10, 2005
3km from Kunlun rock quarry ...
Back on the road after 3 days in the quarry. This stretch of uphill ride was one of the most stunning along the Chinese KKH with the snow cladded mountains so near to us. We looked liked ants infront of these majestic peaks.
(Xinjiang,China ... 12.05.05 to 05.06.05)
Barely 3km later, we came to a stop. We had reached another quarry, also by Kunlun. The miners were working on this big chunk of rock which they blasted since last year. We ended up staying another 2 nights at that site, under the persuassion of the hokkien miners. The little brick hut in the background is the dormitory.
Wu, making small paper tubes for their explosives.
The miners reducing the amount of explosives so that the force of explosion would be lesser, in a bid to prevent too much damage to the rock.
Inserting the tubes into the drilled holes
A gigantic task of exploding and chipping off a chunk of the rock. For this explosion, they made use of another method with water and other dynamite. Using the force of water, the damage would not be that bad on the rocks. A crackline on the rock would waste the rocks.
Final preparations for the explosions as they poured away into the holes from the top.
BOOM!!
The piece of rock been blown off. From the big piece, they would drill them into small blocks for ease of transport down the mountain.
Cooking also done by the miners themselves
After much persuassion, we finally got the whole gang of hokkien miners to take this group photo! *smile*
Posted by a2e at June 10, 2005 08:35 PM
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« Leaving the French & meeting the Kyrgzs | Main | 3km from Kunlun rock quarry ... »
June 10, 2005
Kunlun Rock Quarry & the HOKKIENS!!
Kunlun Rock Enterprise
(Xinjiang,China ... 12.05.05 to 05.06.05)
Oops! didn't mean to scare anyone. When we approached the Chinese from the rock quarry, they welcomed us with open arms and urged us to go indoors immediately because they have a special treat - wolf's meat! The carcass hanging in their kitchen was a wolf's, a gift from the Guz PLA frontier army to the rock quarry management.
Everyone chipping in for a piece of rare meat. The board of directors for Kunlun Rock enterprise happened to be on a site visit at that time.
The temporary dormitory at the Kunlun rock quarry, merely a stone's throw from the Kyrgzs that we stayed the night before.
"Lu-chong-rong", the chinese viagra as they called it. This herb can be found in the mountains there and the miners always go digging in their free time. It is normally soaked in spirit or whisky either in natural form or after drying.
We were surprised to meet HOKKIEN miners in this quarry! And more surprisingly, most of them came from the same district as SK's grandfather! We came to know that Fujian produces alot of skilled rock miners and they are sought after nationwide in different kinds of quarries. It snowed the night before so the miners could not go up the mountains. Their pastime? Gambling, reputedly the bad name of hokkiens everywhere. And during gambling, the miners were just swearing liked nobody's business .. &^@#*&!!
Wu, showing us a paper currency he found on the street of his village in HuiAn district. Can anyone recognise the orange paper note with a Chinese junk? It was a Singapore $2 note, already out of circulation for this colour. The miners told us that their villages received alot of Singaporeans who regularly visit their relatives there. Even Singapore and Malaysia currency can be exchanged for RENMINBI there.
Taking a ride up the mountains on their bulldozers to visit the mining site. The base of the quarry is at 2800m a.s.l. and we travelled on the bulldozer to approx. 3200m high.
Looking down from the highest mining site. The trail of snow on left of picture is a running river below where the workers get most of their water supply, pure mountain/mineral water. The zig zag paths leading up the mine site can be seen on the mountain in the picture.
Ke, preparing explosives after 2hrs of drilling to blow up a section of hard rock, deemed unable to be removed by the bulldozer.
BOOM!
2 miners drilling into the rock wall. The working environment is quite hazardous as there is always a threat of landslides, rocks falling and sudden change of weather. The miners also do not like the long period of cold in the mountains.
The drilled and chipped off blocks of rock ready to be sold for further polishing into marble.
This is the end product. The marble is known as "Bing-chuan-bai-ma-shi" and is only available in this mountain range in China. Currently quite highly priced and sought after. In future, if you are visiting Dalian Airport, look out for this marble from Kunlun quarry. It maybe in some Olympic buildings too.
A parting shot with Mr.Wu and Mr.Wang infront of the quarry. The landscape behind wuold be changed in the near future due to the excavation of these rocks...
Posted by a2e at June 10, 2005 08:21 PM
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June 10, 2005
Leaving the French & meeting the Kyrgzs
From Almaty to Kyrgzstan until Xinjiang, Jeremy (also fondly known as 'Pierce Wang') has been riding with us and almost adapting to our style of travel, seeking homestay every night instead of tenting. One fine day on the KKH, we finally parted our ways ...
(Xinjiang,China ... 12.05.05 to 05.06.05)
Cycling along the barren landscape towards Guz, a frontier outpost in the gorge.
Bonjour! Jeremy was finally able to meet his cycling companion, Johan with whom he started the trip initially. They had ridden around Mongolia, crossed China from the north to the south and rode in Laos before parting their ways, each going into their own backpacking and cycling stint. Johan would be cycling towards Kashgar then to Tibet whereas Jeremy's agenda would be similar to us until India.
We parted with the Frenchmen, leaving them to catch up with each other for the night. There were sightings of some herder's stone hut on the way so we decided to try our luck with them. A turn into a rock quarry and we met Halili on his motorbike. A short chat with him in mandarin and he beckoned us to follow him to his hut.
The stone hut that Halili, his wife and daughter stay during the herding months. They have house in Guz down the mountain, 15km away but moved around during the spring to autumn with their sheeps for pasture. In the winter months, they would return to Guz.
The children playing with their sheeps after they returned from grazing.
BurAhwal, Halili's sister-in-law cooking noodles soup for dinner. Other ingredients were potatoes and small pieces of meat which they specially took out to share with us.
The delicious dinner of handmade noodles. Each of us had a 2nd round of the soup noodles, simply delicious!
The 3 families all invited for dinner in Halili's brother's hut, due to us. They are Kyrgzs whose ancestors crossed the mountains decades (or centuries) ago, settling in this part of the present China. They still kept to their nomadic lifestyles, living a simply life in the mountains.
The hut as big as you can see, with another 3~4m² not in picture. We shared the sleeping space with the family, a first in our encounter with the Central Asia people.
It snowed during the night, covering the mountains with another blanket of snow. The view as it was, just from the outside of the hut in the early morning.
The husbands out shepherding and the wives spending their time knitting.
Knitting a kiyiz to make some kind of mat. The ladies would sketch the patterns with chalk followed by knitting.
Posted by a2e at June 10, 2005 08:14 PM
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« The Karakoram Highway begins ... | Main | Leaving the French & meeting the Kyrgzs »
June 10, 2005
Hydro-electric Power Plant
The Oytag hydro-electric plant. Water from a dam through a 2km pipeline provides the energy to generate electricity.
(Xinjiang,China ... 12.05.05 to 05.06.05)
Plant tour by Jia, an employee from the Xinjiang Power. The Plant has 2 turbines capable of producing 2000kW of electricity each.
Dinner treat by Jia. He was posted to Oytag hydro-electric plant to assist in the training of local technicians in managing the plant.
Our 'bedroom', actually the main hall of the Oytag Plant Administrative building. It was so spacious that each of us could take a corner and retreat into our own privacy. *blink*
With our friends from the Oytag Hydro-electric Plant
A short ride from the plant, we reached the only stretch of KKH that was newly pathed. This 77km of road was the 1st section to be completed from July 2004 and indeed it was a wise move. This stretch would be the steepest and climbing from 1700m to 3000m elevation.
Tashkurgen, our destination on the Chinese KKH. Another
223km to go. 1552km as seen on the milestone is from Urumqi.
Posted by a2e at June 10, 2005 07:09 PM
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Hi, SK san
i visited your blog after several months...
"oh, where is he now?"
you are already in Asia!
take care & go on on on!
Posted by: Haru at September 28, 2005 10:20 PM
well ... it's been quite long Anjeet, but our starting date was 1st Aug 2004. easy to remember :) ... will probably take another 5 mths to destination ;)
Posted by: a2e at September 23, 2005 03:07 PM
Hi how long did u travell
Posted by: Anjeet Sitoula at September 15, 2005 01:00 PM
Hey Sean!
Got your post card!
Thanks for remembering me, so far away!
Take care!
Posted by: Siew loo at September 9, 2005 11:53 AM
hey hey yo...a2e...
it had been a great 18 days here in nepal...safe journey ahead...see u all next yr....take good care....be careful....
best best regards,
dunlin :Þ
Posted by: dunlin : Þ at September 6, 2005 06:21 PM
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June 10, 2005
The Karakoram Highway begins ...
Karakoram Highway (KKH) or otherwise known as "National Highway 314" in China starts south of Kashgar. This road would bring us up to the Pamir Plateau, before crossing the Karakoram range into Pakistan. It took 12yrs to build this highest highland road linking China and Pakistan. In the course of construction, hundreds of lives were lost in China and Pakistan. The Chinese termed it a marvellous feat in mankind, comparing it with the Great Wall of China. The Pakistanis called it the "8th Wonder of the World"...
(Xinjiang,China ... 12.05.05 to 05.06.05)
Final farewell to the group of employees from Kashgar Water Company.
Guess who we met in Simen Hotel - Alex Koh, fellow cycle tourist from Singapore. He had previously cycled from London to New Zealand and this time, it was only a short trip with his German friends from some Central Asia countries to Pakistan.
Junji, another cyclo-tourist from Japan. Junji has been on the road for 5yrs, around the world. He came from Pakistan side unlike us and was heading to Tibet from Kashgar. He had a crash on the KKH where he broke the rear dropout on his chainstay. When we met him on the day of our departure, he was actually trying to visit some bike shops for repairs.
Riding on KKH. Unbelievable right? True to what we have gathered in Kashgar, the KKH was ripped off totally for road widening and resurfacing. Merely 23km out of Kashgar and we came face to face with reality ... gravel roads! It was really unexpected for us to ride on such conditions on the fame KKH.
A road works truck squeezing past Sean. Everytime a vehicle passed from either direction, clouds of dust and sand would swept us. *cough* *cough*
Our host in traditionally Uygur cap, holding a bowl of tea with pieces of nan (notice the chopsticks) in Opal village. Even out of Kashgar, it was still difficult to find homestay with the Uygur families. Many were willing to accomodate due to their hospitable nature but they have to inform the local authorities about us. It was often the authorities who denied our nights with them.
"Road works area, Reduce speed". For vehicles on the gravel roads, it was 40km/h. But for us, we were inching at snail's pace. It was quite exhaustive end of the day riding on such terrain.
Posted by a2e at June 10, 2005 07:02 PM
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« Chased out of Kashgar | Main | The Karakoram Highway begins ... »
June 01, 2005
Bustling city ... ancient Silk Road hub
The statue of Mao stands, overlooking the main square. The banner below him reads,"Let's bring Kashgar to the world, then the world will know Kashgar."
(Xinjiang,China ... 12.05.05 to 05.06.05)
This is Kashgar city, now. 6 lanes roads, alleys of shopping lanes, rows of shopping complexes. It looked just liked any developed coastal city in China except for the population. Kashgar, been the administrative captial of the Uygur Autonomous region is populated by Uygurs with other minorities such as Kyrgzs, Uzbeks, Tajiks. The Han Chinese is gradually increasing with many coming from inland cities.
The old town of Kashgar. Stepping out of the concrete jungle, we travelled into what Kashgar has been famed for centuries - the hub of the Silk route trade between inland China and the west.
The "Dongmen Bazaar", newly renovated to provide organised stalls, spacious walkways and cleaner environment. The area where the current bazaar stands is the original site of a larger bazaar both indoor and open-air since the silk road times.
Sewing leather bags and shoes, craftsmen of all sorts are still seen in the bazaar.
Craving for a hair cut?
It was actually shaving all SK's hair!
Within 15mins of cutting and massage, trimming of nose hairs, moustache and beard, the shaving was done. Standing with his proud new look with the barber. However, the barber demanded more. It was initially 1 YUAN when we asked. After the shave, he asked for 10 YUAN. SK eventually gave him 3 YUAN instead, the price for a normal haircut in a Uygur salon.
Stalls selling spices and chillis.
A butcher stall
Trying out the local food of different kinds of noodles in the bazaar.
Donkey carts are still the main transport mode for the villagers. Some of them could be seen selling things directly from the cart. There was even a parking lot for the donkeys and their carts!
A carpet illustrating the Silk route trade with the Chinese characters of "Silk Route"
More than 600 years old and perhaps the oldest and biggest mosque in China. The architectural style of the mosque with the square arch and minarets bear resemblance to those in Central Asia.
Zhu's wife making handmade noodles in her beauty salon. They are already the 2nd generation in Kashgar, diet has been changed and adapted to the locals'. Some prefer having noodles as staple diet. According to them, almost every household in Xinjiang knows how to make handmade noodles!
With the Zhu family over lunch. Zhu was one of the emplyees from Kashgar Water Company who found us a shelter in the basement room. Later he invited us back us back to his house. We eventually put up for 2 more nights under his roof due to the rainy days. (p/s: It is very rare to rain continously in Kashgar but we caught it ... *grin*)
Posted by a2e at June 1, 2005 10:38 PM
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I would love to go to China too now!
Posted by: Fiona at September 1, 2005 05:56 AM
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June 01, 2005
Chased out of Kashgar
Homestay in this part of China is not as easy as it may seemed ...
(Xinjiang,China ... 12.05.05 to 05.06.05)
Entering Kashgar, the once ancient Silk Route hub connecting the west and the east. Entering the city however beared little reminder of that silk route history - high rise buildings, shopping complexes, wide car lanes and traffic, Kashgar is rapidly transforming to match the coastal cities' development.
In a bid to find homestay in Kashgar, we rode to the outskirts, village belt. It was difficult to approach the Uygurs living in the belt and they always recommended us to the city's hotels. Eventually, much to our surprise, we found a Chinese farm among the densely populated Uygur area. One of the Chinese farmer offered his abandoned mushroom farm for our nightstay. Jeremy seen entering the building.
Pitcjing Jeremy's tent inside the mushroom house. Surrounding us were discarded bottles used to grow mushrooms, chemicals and all sorts of paper rubbish. It was however quite airy and there was no stench from the mushrooms. Just abit of tidying up and we were all set to pitch the tent for the night.
A Sichuan dinner of spicy marinated pork and vegetables with rice, cooked by the other farmers. They hailed mostly from Sichuan and have been here for 4~5years trying to make a living from farming.
The greenhouses in the farm, managed by almost 40 farmers from inland. Attracting farmers from inland is one of the development in agriculture in Xinjiang. The Chinese farmers grow alot of tomatoes and cucumbers in the greenhouses, a staple diet in the region.
Farmers turning the soil to grow other vegetables. Other varieties of green leafy vegetables are also grown there to meet the growing population in Xinjiang.
Washing radish with the mud water in order to sell them in the market.
Not in Jeremy's tent but in a basement room. Everything was going fine with the farmers until the arrival of their "boss". Apparently, they were not allowed to house any foreigners in the Uygur Autonomous region due to security and safety reasons. The caretaker of the agriculture land even contacted the local Police and Foreigners' Police (who could speak English) in a bid to chase us out. Thus, under the scrutiny of the officers, we packed and left our friends in the darkenes, in the middle of the night. Riding almost out of the city, we eventually met 2 Chinese employees with the Kashgar Water Company. After some effort, they found us a place in the basement of a company building besides the water company. It was past midnight by the time we laid down on the floor, so exhausted.
Posted by a2e at June 1, 2005 10:29 PM