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May 25, 2005
Artux city ... in search of a friend
The centre of Artux city where new Chinese buildings dominated the skyline. The Chinese central government has been rapidly developing and beautifying the various cities in Xinjiang. We took a turn into the city in a bid to find a friend, Mr.Tu whom we met in Kazakhstan, from the 1st cow skin factory. Unfortunately, he was not still in Kazakhstan.
(Xinjiang,China ... 12.05.05 to 05.06.05)
A roadside stall selling nan in Artux city. In comparison to their neighbours, the Uygurs' nan differ in texture and sizes. Their nan come in donut shapes to big, flat crispy form and are all hard. Some of the big, flat ones are baked with fried onions.
Abdul Rahman, a Sports teacher watched as his boys trained for the coming soccer competition. Abdul Rahman was our host in Azak village and we were invited to watch their soccer practice in their school. Don't the kids in yellow jerseys remind of a HK movie also of soccer theme? *grin*
The Abdul household has almost everything. According to them, this breed of sheeps is one of the best breed in China, a cross breed if European and Central Asia sheeps.
Xinjiang is famous for a variety of fruits. One of them, the "golden fig" found around the Artux region. Unlike the green or purple mediterranean types, these are golden in color when ripe and extremely sweet. 3pcs for 1 YUAN during the season of July and August!
The most famous of all, grapes of Xinjiang! The family has acres of vineyard, their main source of income besides other jobs in the city.
Eating with the whole family, also delicious handmade la-mian. We conversed mostly in mandarin with the family although not everyone is educated in the mandarin language.
img alt="kzSCN0991.JPG" src="http://www.sgblog.com/a2e/mt/archives/kzSCN0991.JPG" width="384" height="288" border="0" />
This is how you eat our hard, crispy nan! Iman demonstrated by breaking the nan into pieces and soaking them in a bowl of diluted tea (The Uygurs drink very dilute tea). Rock sugar can be added to sweeten the tea. Then the pieces of nan are picked up from the tea using chopsticks. Yes! Everyone uses chopsticks in China, even the minorities.
1,2,3...4 persons squeezed on a motorbike! Rahman gave us a ride to a nearby historical mosque for a visit.
The recently renovated mosque in Azak village, almost >100years old.
Posted by a2e at May 25, 2005 10:21 PM
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« The next day | Main | Artux city ... in search of a friend »
May 25, 2005
Salam? Ni-Hao??
Our first meeting with the Uygur community in China. We greeted with "Salam" as in all muslim populated countries but the Uygur surprisingly replied with "Ni-hao"! Haa ... Here we met Homerjan outside his house. Sensing his friendliness, we approached him for our first night and he realiy agreed. Wow!
(Xinjiang,China ... 12.05.05 to 05.06.05)
A 1st hand look of a typical Uygur house built out of mud and clay. The rooms surrounded the courtyard where grape vines grew from the partially erected roof.
Homerjan works in the fields with his tractor.
His mum cutting vegetables to prepare for our dinner. Later the ladies from other household also joined in to help. After spending the winter months in Central Asia and coming from places where leafy vegetables are a rare commodity, the sight of colourful and green vegetables brought joy across our faces.
Our first taste of handmade "la-mian" (noodles) with an assortment of vegetables in Shan Artux Village. In the background is the typical flat and hard nan baked to last for months. Aren't they delicious just by the look of it?? *slurps*
This is where we slept. A separate area for guests, raised platform with cotton mattresses and blankets, similar to some of the Central Asia style. In fact, the Uygurs are much closer to the Central Asian culture than the Han Chinese. The language and food bear similarities. Most importantly, they are muslims alike their Central Asia neighbours. The Uygur autonomous region is once the land the Uygurs called "East Turkestan".
Posted by a2e at May 25, 2005 10:06 PM
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« Crossing the Pass ... | Main | Salam? Ni-Hao?? »
May 20, 2005
The next day
Lazing on pastures before the Torugart Pass. We had to leave by 8am the next morning to avoid the military personnels from the Kyrgzs Customs. However, the Chinese border was not opened until 10am so we opted to stay away from both sides' military presence, somewhere in between. Weather was quite pleasant initially but winds started to pick up and we even experienced snow flakes while basking in the open!
(Kyrgzstan ... 24.04.05 to 12.05.05)
Loading our bicycles into the van arranged the day before, while the Chinese army personnels watched curiously.
*sigh* 2-wheelers inside 4-wheelers, tied and positioned for the bumpy 107km ride down the mountain.
The striking beauty along the way. It was really a pity we could not ride down this amazing, stunning landscape.
Almost 60km after leaving the Torugart Pass, we finally travelled on cement/asphalt road, all the way until the Torugart Checkpoint. It was a 3-1/2hr journey to the Checkpoint.
Welcome to the People's Republic of China! The Chinese Torugart Checkpoint building is in the background.
Posted by a2e at May 20, 2005 10:01 PM
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Hi! I really envy and salute you guys. have a nice time and take good care.
Posted by: Susan Chan at September 11, 2005 12:59 PM
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« Torugart Pass | Main | The next day »
May 20, 2005
Crossing the Pass ...
Queues of trucks loaded with scrap metal waiting outside the Kyrgzs Torugart Checkpoint. The Pamir mountains in the background.
(Kyrgzstan ... 24.04.05 to 12.05.05)
The Kyrgzs Torugart Checkpoint building behind the gate. We were actually inside the building after 8am but there were not a single soul around. Later at 9am, we were chased out of the compound by armed military personnels. Border checkpoint opened at 10am. We were the only tourists there, at that time.
Outside the Kyrgzs Torugart Checkpoint. With a "Torugart" stamp on our passports, we were
officially out of Kyrgzstan. Obstacle no.1 cleared, now bound for the Chinese border, 6km away.
Riding towards the Chinese border at 3600~3700m elevation, besides the traffic of scrap metal trucks.
Torugart Pass. 2 stone slabs now mark the border between China and Kyrgzstan. We saw from pictures that there was once a gate/arch on the pass. Our bicycles leaning against the fence of the Chinese border as we were not allowed to cross the border - we had not made any arrangements with a travel agent from Kashgar to pick us up. The Chinese border guards' compound lie in the background.
The hostile attitude was changed when a group of army guys marched past us. Their officer approached us and was particularly enthusiastic and encouraging to our cycling stint. He even allowed this rare photo taking session with his boys, but without him *grin*.
A surprise treat from the officer! We were invited into their TV room to have our lunch of rice with spicy cucumbers and chicken feet. It was definitely one of our most memorable meal - authentic chinese food served by the Chinese Army on 3700m mountain pass!
The paranomic view of the surrounding mountains from Torugart Pass. It was a perfect day for riding, pleasant weather, "blue sky, white clouds" (Chinese saying) and unobstructed view. With an encouraging army behind us, a delicious lunch and such a breathtaking sight, our morale was certainly given a boost. At that moment, we were just hopeful that things would turn for the better as we approached the next obstacle, the Chinese customs.
Roaring down the rocky road from Torugart Pass towards the Chinese "Pre-Inspection Area", 5km away.
"Tu-er-ka-te" or Torugart as we know as. This was the "Pre-Inspection Area" where all trucks were subjected to inspection by the Chinese army before descending 107km to the Torugart Checkpoint. We were denied the ride down from here. After failed requests, we had to climb back the 5km, 200m elevation to Torugart Pass.
Our sheltered and cosy bunk in the dormitory of the Kyrgzstan border guards where we took refuge. Returning to Kyrgzstan territory was not an advisable option, camping outside in the mountains would expose us to freezing temperatures, sweeping gales and threat of wolves, the officer put aside his risks and accomodated us. Not to mention the hot meals and tea that came along.
(For more information about the Torugart Pass crossing, pls refer to previous article "Torugart Pass")
Posted by a2e at May 20, 2005 09:51 PM
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« Towards the Torugart Pass | Main | Crossing the Pass ... »
May 16, 2005
Torugart Pass
This is an account of how we crossed the Torugart Pass at 3752m from Kyrgzstan to China.
10/May
68km from Ak-Beyit, we reached a caravan (wagon) site and were stopped in front of a "Militia Post" (Police checkpoint). Our passports were checked and registered inside the small post. After the registering, we were told by the 2 men in army jackets that we had to pay 200 som (~US$5) per person, for whatever reasons we were not clear.
We asked to see their official documents stating this 'entrance' fee for foreigners but they said that they were in the safe. Then they tried to break open the safe in a bid to recover the so-called document. The standoff lasted for >15mins before they finally agreed to return our passports. Before they left, they reminded us to return the next morning and they would show us the document to pay our fees.
From the "Militia Post", we were told that the Kyrgzs Customs Checkpoint was just 500m down the road. A multi-stories government lookalike building could be seen from there.
It was blowing shivering cold winds that evening but we did not fancy paying for a night in one of the wagon 'motel' there. They asked for 100som each. While searching for a possible site to pitch Jeremy's tent, Sean explained to the previous Police that we had been putting up at locals' houses every night. Surprisingly he offered his wagon to us, free of charge. We could even put our bikes inside the wagon. Tucked comfortably in our sleeping bags, we were lucky to have gotten this wagon as it was freezing temperature outside.
11/May
0800hrs
We rode straight into the customs building. However, it was totally vacant, not a single soul around. An hour later, an army personnel chased us out of the premises, requesting us to wait outside the gate.
0945hrs
We were asked by the guards to enter the Customs building. Just outside, we were stopped and questioned by some army personnel. They asked if we had somebody from China waiting for us at the Chinese border. We gave a name from Kashgar and were cleared to enter the building.
The customs formalities were in fact smoothly done. We did not have an entry stamp when we entered the Kyrgzstan from a remote border crossing between Kazakhstan and Kyrgzstan. Luckily that did not pose any problem as the Kyrgzs officer recognised the exit stamps on our Kazak visas. With the Kyrgys "Torugart" exit stamps on our passports, we rode out of the Customs building.
Immediately after leaving the customs, we climbed a gradual hill. At this point, we were around 3600m a.s.l. and 2km later, we reached a Kyrgzs Border Guard Post where our passports were checked again. A couple of minutes later, we were back on the gravel track, riding towards the Torugart Pass. Weather was brilliant on the mountain top, we could almost feel the sun on our cheeks. 4km on the rolling hills later, the China flag appeared and the Torugart Pass, the highest crossing point between China and Kyrgzstan lie right infront of us. The Chinese army had their border base stationed at the Pass.
When we approached the border, we were stopped by the Chinese soldier stationed there. He told us that if we did not have someone to pick us up from the Pass, we were not be allowed to enter China. What he said was something we had heard of before about crossing the Torugart Pass. However information abt the Pass crossing was vague so we decided to try crossing without applying for any 'permit' or arrangements with any travel agency.
We were stuck at the border for sometime before a 2-star officer came out with some marching soldiers. He saw us with our bikes and approached us, immediately enquiring about our trip. The officer was around our age (rest of soldiers were in early 20s, serving their military service) and appeared very enthusiastic about our cycling stint. We stood chatting on the border with him and his men and eventually took a group photo with the P.R.C soldiers!
By then, it was already 1100hrs (1300h Beijing time) and the lunch time for the soldiers. What happened next caught us by surprise as the officer invited us into their TV room for LUNCH! We gave them our meal boxes and brought our chopsticks inside. Minutes later, our meal boxes returned with steaming hot rice and chicken legs with cucumbers spiced with chilli. What a rare treat! We never imagine having such a meal of Chinese rice on a 3752m mountain pass and in a military compound.
After lunch, we proceeded to descend; nobody seemed to bother about the pick-up issue except for the previous border guard. The signboard at the Pass read "Kashgar 160km. Artus 171km".
It was downhill all the way but along rocky, gravel road. Trucks of scrap metal were passing us, competing with us on the narrow downhill track. We eventually came to a bigger scale Chinese military compound 5km later. We were informed that this was the "Preliminary Inspection Zone" and we could see every truck been checked by the soldiers.
We submitted our passports for the first time to the Chinese officer on duty, a 3-star guy. When he returned minutes later, he delivered a disappointing message to us - we could not descend the Torugart Pass on bicycles. He explained clearly to us that the Torugart Pass is considered a 2nd class transport route between China and Kyrgzstan. As such, they do not allow people of other nationalities to travel on this road. He cited security and safety as reasons due to the long distance to the Chinese Torugart Checkpoint (at 100km later) and the remote landscape and the bad gravel road, unsuitable for bicycles. As we were tourists entering China, they have to hold responsibilities in ensuring our safety. The only solution would be to engage a state-recognised travel agency from Kashgar to ferry us down in a van all the way to the checkpoint 100km later. According to him, it was impossible to arrange at that moment as such arrangements had to be made prior to reaching the Chinese border and travel agencies on both sides had to tie up. Furthermore, there was no network for mobile phones there and the army relied on radio sets for communication. His message was clear - we had to return to the Kyrgzs Checkpoint by that day. As it was a military zone, we could not stay for the night there. He also further explained that they have an agreement with the Kyrgzs Customs whereby our exit stamps would be cancelled once we are back on the Kyrgzs side. A new stamp would be applied when we exit the next time.
There was a Kashgar travel agency guy at that moment. He offered us US$180 for the 3 of us and even stated that he could make arrangements with the checkpoint to allow our descend on the same day. We tried to negotiate for a lower price but he refused and we eventually rejected his offer. He left with his van and we were left stuck at the Inspection zone.
The 3-star officer repeatedly warned us to return a.s.a.p. or otherwise he might have to resort to military actions according to their law. Seeing no other possibilities, we climbed back to our bikes and pedalled up again. Barely out of the zone, another van appeared infront of us. It was from another travel agency and they had come down coz their clients did not appear on the Pass. We approached him to bring us down but unfortunately he did not get clearance from the 3-star officer. He told us he could arrange another van for US$250 the next day if we wanted. Again, the price was non-negotiable. We did not agree to any arrangement and rode all the way up.
Coincidentally on the pass, we met the 2 tourists, a New Zealand trekking guide and a Dutch woman who were supposed to take the 2nd van that we had met earlier. Since we were able to communicate in mandarin, we assisted them in contacting their travel agency and with the guards to arrange for their transport back. We tried to arrange with their travel agency over the phone to pick us up since the 2nd van was returning to pick them up. However, when the Uygur man returned >2hrs later, he cited no approval from below and refused to bring us down. This time, his price for the next day van was US$300. We disagreed to pay such price and once again, we saw them off without any arrangements.
After they left, we tried to contact the 1st travel agency whom we had met at the 5km Inspection zone. He agreed to pick us up at US$200 the next day. Before we left the Chinese military compound, the officer gave us buns and warm soup to fill our empty stomachs. It was 0'C when we left the Chinese border.
We decided to head towards the Kyrgzs Border Guard post and tried our luck in putting up for the night there. On our 1st approach, an officer from the hut did not allow us for the night, citing military area. We were told to return to the Kyrgzs Customs and the gate would be opened for us. However minutes later, 2 young Kyrgzs men came out and beckoned us to follow them to an abandoned house opposite with our bicycles. Once there, hidden from the main road did they explain their intention. It seemed like they wanted to help us for the night, possibly in the hut. However, when we rode down, we passed their higher ranking officers' jeep and they had seen us cycling toward the hut. We had to hide behind the house until the officers finished with their drinking and returned to base. The young Kyrgzs soldiers even lent us their winter army overcoats while waiting in the freezing cold.
Finally, the officers left in their jeep and we were brought into the hut. We were given hot tea, bread and some leftover rice. As we sat and ate in their dining area, the officer explained the situation to us. It would be impossible to house us inside as it was a military compound. Furthermore, his officers had seen us and might be searching for us. However, he also stated that if we return to the base, it would be troublesome as the Customs officers would demand for money when we asked for another exit stamp the next day.
He left us for 30mins while he tried to think of possible solution for us.
2200hrs
He returned to our table and nodded in approval of our stay inside their hut. We would sleep in their dormitory with the soldiers for the night. It was too cold outside and with the sweeping wind and possible wolves, too harsh to sleep in tent.
He further explained that we would have to leave early the next morning and should not return to the Kyrgzs customs.
12/May
We were served a hot meal of porridge with meat and freshly baked 'nan' for breakfast. Leaving the soldiers after breakfast, we rode towards the Torugart Pass. It was a sunny day but gloomy clouds were moving towards us rapidly. As it was still early (the Chinese border only opens after 10am Kyrgzs time), we rode merely 2km and waited on the grass patch there. 1-1/2hr later, we resumed our ride. By then, the 1st truck had appeared on the Torugart road.
We waited outside the Chinese border this time. The weather changed rapidly on the mountain pass. One moment it was sunny and next moment, it was blowing snow and sweeping wind.
1300hrs
The van finally appeared and we descended the pass to the 5km Inspection Zone, our 1st time on the road with an arranged vehicle. We met the same 3-star officer again. As if to make things difficult for us, he wanted to search for books and magazines. Jeremy had a French version of the Lonely Planet on China and it was confiscated by him.
The book was confiscated on grounds of sensitive content, unfriendly towards the P.R.C.It had a map of China on the back cover that did not show Taiwan as part of the P.R.C. - China was shaded in yellow and Taiwan was in different colour. The officer wrote about this book and passed the note with the book to our driver to bring down to the Chinese checkpoint.
The journey down the mountain, across valleys and remote villages on the mostly gravel road lasted almost 3hrs, covering 107km from the Torugart Pass. It was a pity we had to go through this fascinating landscape in a van.
The Chinese Torugart Customs checkpoint was housed in a modern, seemingly new building with smartly dressed officers, customs booths and x-ray machines. A senior Army officer politely welcomed us, took Jeremy's book and gestured us inside for customs formalities. Our passports were checked and nothing was questioned about our earlier exit date from Kyrgzstan customs the day before. All our bags and panniers went through the x-ray machine whereas Sean's rear panniers were checked from the bike as they could not be removed easily. The army and customs officers were all very friendly and helpful towards us, especially interested in our cycling stint. Jeremy's book was returned. The Senior officer and the passport control lady officer even helped to re-stamp Sean's entry stamp because they had previously stamped on a new page - there were not enough pages in his passport for further visas.
We did not have an easy time coming down the Torugart Pass but the warm gesture and friendliness of the officers in the Chinese Torugart Checkpoint certainly lifted our spirits. We have finally entered China.
Posted by a2e at May 16, 2005 04:48 PM
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hey hey yo sean.....
r u still pedaling in xinjiang???dumpling festival is around the corner......did u get to eat any dumplings in china???.....hope u did ya.....if not we would save some for u....hhehehe......do stay safe n sound ya....all the way home!!!!.....u haf been missed by us, from home.....
best best regards,
dunlin : Þ
Posted by: dunlin : Þ at June 8, 2005 12:28 AM
Indeed, very exciting trip for you two!
However, if you have gone with the first agent's offer of $180, you two would have not only saved US$20, you would have saved a day from your trip!
Well, I guess in exchange of these, you have gained a real life-time experience..... which is what both of your are after!
Take care both of you!
God bless you both
Posted by: Fiona at June 7, 2005 02:24 AM
hmmm.. jus curious.. so if run out of passport pages in a foreign land? then how? come back to singapore and make a new one issit???/
Posted by: menglang at June 3, 2005 12:29 AM
Hey guys,
Keep it up! You are closer to home now...
Posted by: Yuming at June 1, 2005 02:05 PM
truly amazing and encouraging.
broke into cold sweat for you guys while reading this - but am so glad everything went well!
Posted by: lishan at May 27, 2005 08:20 AM
Hey Sean,
Guess what, I came across a postcard at Camper's Corner today and was fascinated by its depiction of Ubekistan, Kyrgzstan, Kazhakstan etc. Imagine my surprise when I saw it was signed off by you and S.K! Where's mine huh? ;)
Posted by: Liwei at May 21, 2005 10:03 PM
What an amazing entry!!!
It was as if that when the situation was so helpless and hopeless.... and then suddenly, help just showed up again and again and... And the final statement just sumed it all ... W have finally entered China! Wow! Wow! Wow! Hurray!!!It was probably, and definitely the MOST unbelieveable, unthinkable, unvisualisable, un-imaginable, un-whatever, way of entering the land of the dragon, that I can possibly think of. Keep it going, with best of health.
Posted by: yongfeeh at May 19, 2005 04:53 PM
Awesome.. its amazing how there are helpful souls scattered in places, enough to make do. Keep on pedaling!
Posted by: choonkeat at May 16, 2005 11:52 PM
"there were not enough pages in his passport for further visas"
hey yo sean....seems like u need special, extended pages passport too!!!......
the crossing was indeed an adventure!!!....my eyes were glued to the monitor for the last 15 minutes reading the crossing.....
best best regards,
dunlin : Þ
Posted by: dunlin : Þ at May 16, 2005 07:20 PM
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« Down from the climb and up the 'Bozyu' | Main | Torugart Pass »
May 10, 2005
Towards the Torugart Pass
A Kamez truckload of scrap metal parts bound for Kashgar,China. Our host, Nurlan from Kara Bulun village drives twice monthly to Kashgar via the Torugart Pass. Even though the Pass is <200km away, Nurlan and his brother would take 1-1/2days to travel to the pass due to bad road conditions and high attitude. Driving a 20-30T truck across 3700m terrain is no joking matter.
(Kyrgzstan ... 24.04.05 to 12.05.05)
We were invited the next morning to his brother-in-law's house. They had just celebrated their newly born daughter's birthday the day before. Thus there was a spread of food on the table (as seen in picture). The homemade apricot jam and butter were especially tasty, earning the compliments of Jeremy *grin*. As guests, we were given sheeps' ribs and rice to bring on our journey.
Barely 20km out of Kara Bulun, we hit the gravel roads. From there until Torugart Pass, we would have to contend to riding on such rocky terrain.
The last settlement before the Pass (approx.70km away), Ak Beyit. There were only 6 cottages and a Soviet era building used currently by the truck drivers for overnight rest. Out of the 6 cottages, only 2 were occupied at that time. According to them, the families only come from Ak Bashy with their herds from Spring to Autumn. Ak Beyit is already >3000m high, with no electricity and no grounds for agriculture, it is unsuitable for them to stay whole year round.
The extended family of Shakirov Kaslan (man in middle) who sheltered us for the night. The family also stays in Ak bashy during the winter season. Food, flour and supplies are regularly brought from Ak Bashy to Ak Beyit. The only way to travel between these 2 places is by hitch hiking the scrap metal Kamez trucks that pry the mountain roads.
Herds of yak or cows with hairs? It was snowing at that time, reducing the visibility on the road.
Lunch beneath the great eagle, famous in the Pamir plateau of Kyrgzstan. Jeremy managed to cook instant noodles that he bought in Almaty, Kazakhstan while we cleared our ribs from 2 days ago. Luckily during lunch stop, it was not snowing, leaving us some peace and a breathtaking surrounding to enjoy!
Tuz Bel Pass, 3574m. It started snowing heavily after lunch, further eroding the muddy road up the Pass, our last pass before reaching the Kyrgzs Torugart Checkpoint. Kamaz trucks were inching their way up and some stalled, as seen in the picture.
Taking a much needed break. The high attitude and gravel roads made riding 60km on the mountains a very exhaustive affair.
Lake Chatyr Kul. Set at 3520 m above sea level and measuring 23km long by 11km wide, it is 18 m deep at its deepest. The lake is frozen from October to May, along the way to the Kyrgzs Checkpoint.
The majestic Pamir mountains
After almost 70km of riding, we finally caught sight of the Kyrgzs Torugart Checkpoint. It was a relief to reach our destination as the temperature plunged lower and the freezing winds were picking up in the evening.
A military personnel standing besides buses of wagons before the Checkpoint compound. These wagons offer accomodation and food for 100som per night.
Inside the wagon offered by the militia (police). It was lucky we could sleep inside a wagon as the below zero temperature and sweeping freezing wind would be a threat to camp outside. Even inside, we were sleeping in thermals and fleece and beanies on.
(For more on the Torugart Pass crossing, pls refer to the previous article, "Torugart Pass".)
Posted by a2e at May 10, 2005 09:40 PM
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« Kyrgyzstan ... climbing the pass!! | Main | Towards the Torugart Pass »
May 10, 2005
Down from the climb and up the 'Bozyu'
The day began with yet another pass. In most part of Kyzyl-Bel Pass, there are asphalt road. On the rough under construction portion, we could do little but to get down & push. Many trucks have to move with extreme caution & crawling speed.
(Kyrgzstan ... 24.04.05 to 12.05.05)
Ah ... once over the top, the soft gardient allows us to roll down smoothly, between rounded hill tops of appealing grasses.
On the outskirt of At-Bashy, we stopped to watch a seasonal event. He is shaving the sheep by hand.
Here, a machine shaver is used. If you asked me, I believe both methods are painful ... the sheeps have not much of a choice, do they?!
The layers of felt & woven straw mats for a 'bozyu', the Kyrgyz yurt.
The erecting of the 'bozyu'. The old lady is piecing together the lattice framework of the wall.
Installing of the door is simple yet crucial.
The critical fitting of the 'tyuduk', the crossbeams at the top of the yurt.
Keeping the 'tyuduk' in place & forming of the roof is quite technical due to the variables, example the level of the ground & length of each supports.
After an hour or so, the strong skeleton took shape. We decided not to wait for the rest of the fittings.
Posted by a2e at May 10, 2005 04:17 PM
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« Red hills, misty lakes, blue sky & goodbye Naryn | Main | Down from the climb and up the 'Bozyu' »
May 07, 2005
Kyrgyzstan ... climbing the pass!!
Hello people! How's life ... wherever u are! :) We've reached and actually been in this country of many mountains for 13 days already. Cold, lots of uphills (that's to say much downhill as well :) and still climbing on. The border to China is marked by the highest that we'll meet. We'll keep going on tougher everyday, so do you yah!
**Want to take this chance to say a HAPPY MOTHER's DAY to all loving mothers we've met and especially to our very own!!
ps. check this out www.alarencontredespeuples.fr.st
Posted by a2e at May 7, 2005 06:03 PM
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really enlighten to hear theat there's warm hearted people in the cold harsh weather.
was worried when going reading your journal... keep your spirit up man!
See you in sin soon...
eun
Posted by: babymanta at June 19, 2005 10:52 PM
Hi you both!
I have not seen any of your journeys since you arrived in China in mid-May!
Are you two okay?!?!?
Take very very good care of yourselves!
If you have any problem, give me a shout! I know people in China. They might be able to help you.
Posted by: fiona at June 7, 2005 02:30 AM
Dear sean
is papa, how are you, my son? I just came back today, and had just finished reading your remarkable encounter of your bicycle trip.
please take good care and be careful always
wish you all a wonderful and safe journey back home.
PaPa
Posted by: Yau She Siang at June 1, 2005 05:04 PM
130505 Shu shu, I am Ying Lin, Wish you all the best and a long but safe journey home. I love you. Bye bye.
From Mother: Take good care of yourselves. Be safe and be healthy. See u back home.
From Big Bro: confirm you are now cutting across China as indicated in the website www.alarencontredespeuples.fr.st?
Posted by: Ying Lin at May 13, 2005 10:22 PM
ho ho, finally an update. wow, seems like you guts have come a pretty long way. keep those pics coming! :D
In His Time (^^>) a-jack
Posted by: Jack Lee at May 12, 2005 01:24 PM
hey sean....
damnit... eevrything i talk to dunlin online, i think of u...
come back fast okie!!
Posted by: menglang at May 10, 2005 08:46 PM
Hello Ah Tan & Sean,
Been a long time since.
How about the equippments guys? Hope they could last the tough terrain.
Write me a mail if possible.
Francis AKA KOWLOW
Posted by: Francis at May 10, 2005 11:37 AM
hello hello... swee kian and sean!
u 2 r our eyes to the real world. filling us with all ur interesting stories n beautiful pics! keep on going guys! ride safe, be safe!
take care! ~ka
Posted by: kian ann at May 8, 2005 04:04 PM
hey sean and SK how are u? hope u all are doing well . Is so exciting reading ur blog to check on your latest progress everytime.
cheers
Poh seng
Posted by: pohseng at May 8, 2005 01:01 AM
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« Before parting with Issyk-Kul | Main | Kyrgyzstan ... climbing the pass!! »
May 02, 2005
Red hills, misty lakes, blue sky & goodbye Naryn
Heading away from the lake, we moved into the mountains & the land turned arid with bizarre colours.
(Kyrgzstan ... 24.04.05 to 12.05.05)
Out of nowhere, this eerie lake popped up into our view. Silence & stillness hanged about it.
From the rayon center of Kochkor, we headed on. Suddenly the wind stirred up, picking up dust & sand. Soon all became blur.
By the side of the road, Ulan called out to us. There were less than 10 houses in the small farming settlement of Tendik. Ulan's sheeps run up & down the hills daily.
There's no electricity since years ago when the copper in the electric poles were removed for sale. Hence when night falls, it's time to sleep :)
Today, we shall tackle our 1st big climb, the Dolun Pass, over 3000m!
The wind felt right, the sky looked perfect, but the road was just impossible to maneuver. Loose rocks & steep slopes proved too much to pedal on & many times we have to dismount & push. Very tiresome, but step by step, we can still move forward.
Finally ... the top! It has been one of the toughest yet. Looking at this, all the efforts paid off. :)
Once again we rode beside a river & grass fields became plentiful. In Kara-Unkurt, we approached Satarbek & he welcomed us with steaming 'non' and his large family greeted us with warmth. A little while later, it started to rain.
Cattles roam free except for a turf near the house where the family fenced up. Those are for sale.
Sheeps & goats crossing the river. Really happens, not fiction!
An old power generator that used to provide electricity for this small village. The heavy snowfall had damaged the water inflow.
This is a family of female doctors. Starting with the mother, Rapila, then her eldest daughter, Dinara, and her younger daughter is currenly in studies. Her sons are more into car repairs and servicing.
ps.Due to power failure, more pictures of Naryn could not be available at this time. Jeremy, can you spare some?
Posted by a2e at May 2, 2005 04:08 PM
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« Time to work, for the travellers & the Scientists | Main | Red hills, misty lakes, blue sky & goodbye Naryn »
May 02, 2005
Before parting with Issyk-Kul
The sun shines high onto the deep blue lake, enhancing the colours of the earth. The perfect painting ...
(Kyrgzstan ... 24.04.05 to 12.05.05)
If not for the vague outline of the mountain range far across the lake, I felt like looking to the sea.
The scene won't be completed without an act, 'Jeremy & the Issyk-Kol'.
Time to get personal & try out the water of the 'hot lake'. Cencorship applies from now.
We met a noisy flock of pupils emerging from the roadside at Kara-Koo village, school has just ended. Anxious to get off this main road, we turned into a quiet lane and paused 100m later. This noodle meal was cooked by Kubanubek's wife, Ainura, as they eagerly embraced us into the house.
They made fresh bread and were focused to pamper us as if it'll give them great pride & honor to host guests from a far away land.
Biscuits fresh & warm from the factory. 10 mins later, these irresistable temptations were gone ...
The only Chinese in Balukchy city. By coincident, the neighbor of Ms Yu overheard us asking for Chinese people while posting her letters in the post office. Ms Yu has come here only recently to look after the biscuit factory. Murat is her house-keeper while Gildiz helps with translations.
Posted by a2e at May 2, 2005 04:03 PM
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« Karakol & the American Dream | Main | Before parting with Issyk-Kul »
May 02, 2005
Time to work, for the travellers & the Scientists
Jeremy gets ready to cross the shaky, frail & depilated bridge. "Camera rolling ... actions!"
(Kyrgzstan ... 24.04.05 to 12.05.05)
But it's really time to do some serious work in Barskoon village. We have come to stay with Mahabat's parents & her siblings.
It's the season to plough the land for planting of veggie & potatoes. See these 1st time farmers at work ... hmm ...
Askat & Rahat are the witnesses & teacher of the bread-baking lesson, while the French makes judgments on the baguette. "Passed?"
With an earlier contact from, Jason, another volunteer we met in Karakol, we managed to find the Scientist Robin, her assistants, Jeff & Jake, and her landlords, Daria & Murat, in Tamga village. We're just in time for tea!
Barskoon & Tamga are twin city, barely 20km apart. One mainly populated by Kyrgyz , other by Russian. Here we went to a hilltop cemetery, this section is for Orthodox Christian.
This section is for Muslim.
Tonight, we're putting up with Daria's brother, also called Murat. A chauffeur by profession & living alone. He is the only Kyrgyz we've met who drinks ... coffee!
We tracked down the Scientist & her assistants in a village 12km away. This is their work; recording the behaviour of apple flowers in order to study the pollination of the fruit in relation to bees.
Climbing ladder & smelling flowers, all in a day's work. "Keep up the great work guys!"
Posted by a2e at May 2, 2005 03:58 PM
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« Kyrgyz, Russian & Przhevalsky | Main | Time to work, for the travellers & the Scientists »
May 02, 2005
Karakol & the American Dream
It's a mysterious how things worked out. We met Amy at the post office & having some brief introduction, she decided to help us and get us to meet a friend of hers. She is a volunteer with the Peace Corps and has been here since Sep 2004. This is the school where she teaches.
(Kyrgzstan ... 24.04.05 to 12.05.05)
A local market where namely noodles and salad are sold. Seemed kind of Korean influence, the food, the looks and the taste.
Not all bread are for people's consumption. Some of these dark brown ones are hard and made for animals. It pays to ask 1st.
Don't lose your head!
Mahabat saw us walking out of the bazar & came to us. I felt rather skeptical of her intention however, after chatting together with her friend, Tolkun, I realised that they had only wanted to meet people, practice their English & make foreign friends. Really daring girls indeed!
This is the friend Amy wants us to meet. Sage is also a volunteer but more significantly, she is a traveller too. Be it backpacking, or by cycle, she has done more than you can imagine!
We've decided to head out to the nature and take an unbeaten track to see Ala Kol (a 3700m high alpine lake) in the Karakol valley.
1st stage - river crossing.
Breathtaking! The green hills, the lush forests & the emerald river.
"Steady .. steady ... the logs seemed sturdy enough"
"Not too far away ... just around the corner", doesn't that sound familiar.
Deny to advance by heavy snow that has covered the track, we have no choice but to set camp for the night and head back down tomorrow. Tired & hungry, we realised we have missed out a lighter for our stove. sigh ... got to settle for bread & dry instant noodles & turn in early. Shit happens, so life goes on.
Heading home, the beauty of the great outdoors continues to capture our hearts and make the effort well-worth.
Amy & her American friends preparing for an evening gathering. Good thing we have returned to be at the right place, at the right time :D It's Mexican tonight!
"Alright! Everybody cheese! Hey Mahima! Stop eating for a sec will you!"
Posted by a2e at May 2, 2005 03:51 PM
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« Blocked by snow ... | Main | Karakol & the American Dream »
May 02, 2005
Kyrgyz, Russian & Przhevalsky
These enthusiastic kids showing us to the house where we can take a break.
(Kyrgzstan ... 24.04.05 to 12.05.05)
My front rack broke while cycling on the rocky track. This McGayver-trained local man came along with a pliers and some metal strips. Took about half an hour & fix the problem temporary. Looks good! Let see how long it'll last.
With the rack mended & stomach filled, it's all smiles at the '3rd firma Santash' :)
The versatility of the Kyrgyz & their horse shown crossing the cold river. There seemed to be connecting roads on both sides of the banks, but looked to be washed away by natural forces ...
Giving a helping hand #1: Herding the cows together.
Giving a helping hand #2: Keeping the cow calm & still for milking.
Job well done under the guidance of Domirbek & his brotherhood of cowboys!
The French & his high-tech portable solar panel that comes with a charger for AA batteries. Less than 2 hours to charge. Wonderful gadget to have along!
The nature, as we sit on its carpet & relax under its shade, provided for us with much peace & pleasure while we savour on the sweetness of the honey & bread. Ah ... ps. The main road to Tup is only 100m away.
The much talked about lake, Issyk-Kol. Finally, we have come so close. At Pristan Przhevalsky, we have the company of 2 Russian boys to show us around.
Memorial statue of the great Russian explorer, Nikolai Przhevalsky. Do you know about his amazing expeditions?!
The hilltop view of the village with the huge lake stretching to the horizon & meeting the setting sun. So magical ...
Mainly populated by Russians, who are very helpful, friendly & approachable. Here we met the kind souls, people who you never expect to take you in ...
Mdm Bondareva lives alone in a small apartment but her heart is no doubt BIG. Pity we didn't picked up enough language to converse much with her, yet she joyfully made us tasty & filling food. This night she gave up her apartment to us and went to stay over with her neighbour. "Mdm Bondareva, spasibo!"
Posted by a2e at May 2, 2005 03:43 PM
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« Last stop for Kazakhstan | Main | Kyrgyz, Russian & Przhevalsky »
May 02, 2005
Blocked by snow ...
1st contact with Kyrgyz. These gentlemen were on their way to collect water from a nearby spring, but turned back anyway to bring us home for a lunch stop.
(Kyrgzstan ... 24.04.05 to 12.05.05)
We have planned to take an off-road around the mountains and came to this village, Kar-Kuduk. Situated just on the riverbank that borders Kazakhstan, Erik runs a wood business & stay here most of the year with his family. During winter it'll be too snowy & cold.
"Oops ... snow on the track. Okie, just got to push across"
"Hmm ... looks like lots of snow ahead. Maybe we could push across also ..."
"I don't think so. The snow is too thick, too hard and slippery. Too much to risk with the icy river just beside ... one wrong step & ..."
No chance for this route. Sadly we have to turn back & give this "Little Switzerland" a miss this time.
Posted by a2e at May 2, 2005 03:38 PM