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January 31, 2005
Going Mary
From Ashgabat, we headed towards Mary, known in ancient days as Merv. It would be another 600km before we could reach the border of Uzbekistan.
(Turkmenistan ... 09.01.05 to 10.02.05)
Ojam's family in Gawerz village. Ojam sells fresh cow milk to Ashgabat's markets everyday. From his 7 cows, they could get almost 30L of milk daily, selling at US$0.35/litre.
In Artyk village with the Baymyradow family. The father initially did not want to accomodate us due to no gas supply in their house. Their house was out of gas supply piping in the village and they worried that it would be too cold for us. We did stay overnight eventually . Artyk is the nearest village to Iran along the Kopet Dag mountains range.
Selling car and motorbike lubricant outside their house. Dushak village.
In addition to selling lubricant, the Caryyarow family also operates a small grocery shop and makes and sells 'manty' in the local train station.
Mahyrn and her bro, Dowlet making manty from flour and mutton. They make around 1000 manty everyday, selling them in the train stations from day to night.
At their store in the train station. It is a mini bazaar catering to the train passengers. We went with them to the train station at 8pm. The last train that night would be around 9pm.
Dowlet and his mother busy selling manty. Their manty were selling liked hot cakes. Each manty costed 250 manat (approx. US$0.01).
Introducing Malaysia to Agamurat in Waharman village. We carry a Malaysia map and sometimes exchange information about Malaysia with our hosts.
Customers sitting outside on the typical wooden platform at a roadside cafe having their food.
Hanaly's wife cooking plov for dinner. Our host in Howuz-Han, Hanaly went out to buy cotton oil and rice to prepare plov for his visitors - us. The oil and rice were actually 'bought' on credit; Hanaly would have to clear the debt when he starts working by spring.
With our host, Hanaly (2nd man from left) and his family.
Temperature dropped that night and rain turned into snow. We were travelling up north, actually away from the warmer south. From the television weather forecasts, Uzbekistan and Kazakstan were snowing with temperature way below zero degrees.
Roasting pork, marinated with salt in a pit for 6hrs. Our host in Mary is a roast pork distributor.
With our host, Toyly and his close friend, Merat's family chatting over dinner in their flat. Toyly explained that they were more liked "russian-muslim". During the soviet era, religion belief was suppressed. Many muslims were either not practising or they had to do it discreetly. When the USSR collapsed some 13 years ago, Islam returned to Turkmenistan. However, many were already so disassociated with the Islam practices liked going to mosques and fasting month. As a result, many of them merely keep the Islam faith . To make a living, Toyly distributes roast porks to local markets. Most of the customers, russians.
Toyly packing the roast pork after 6hrs of roasting in the pit.
Besides roast pork distributor, Toyly is also a wholesaler of cigarettes. We visited him in Mary's biggest wholesale bazaar before we left the city.
Maksat's somsa, a kind of mutton pie baked from the tamdyr in picture. Maksat's somsa and choret were selling liked hot cakes in Bayram Ali. According to Maksat, the Saudi princes always buy his bread when they come to Bayram Ali for hunting during summer.
Posted by a2e at January 31, 2005 06:15 PM
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January 30, 2005
Under the wings of Petronas ...
Ashgabat, capital of Turkmenistan. (picture) The Independence Square, with the golden dome Palace of Turkmenbashi on the left and other ministries in the centre. Ashgabat was completely levelled in a 1948 earthquake. The city was closed for 5 years to clear the bodies and debris. It was in this modern city that we finally met up with fellow Malaysians from Malaysia's National oil company, Petronas.
(Turkmenistan ... 09.01.05 to 10.02.05)
Waiting at the Ashgabat Olympic stadium for our Petronas' contact, Azahar to pick us up. The brightly lit Ashgabat city centre lies in the distant. By the way, do the crescent and stars bear any similarity to some countries' flag?
In Azahar's house with Azwari, another Malaysian. Azahar was our 1st contact in Petronas, given by our embassy in Turkey. It was through Azahar that we got to know of Zul in Turkmenbashi port. Putting up with Azahar gave us the opportunities to savour malay dishes cooked by his wife.
Table tennis session with Mr.Lim, Azahar and Azwari. The guys had recently bought the table tennis table to spice up their after-work recreation. Alot of Petronas staffs and Malaysian sub-contractors in Ashgabat were highly skilled table tennis players. Don't play play leh!
Joseph and his wife, Aunty Leh Mee at their apartment. The friendly couples were from Miri, Sarawak. Not only did we get to sample various chinese dishes from them, we also got a richer understanding of the life in Sarawak, East Malaysia. Stories of pepper growing, latex tapping, soy sauce making, salted egg making, Malaysia's oil ...
Tolkuchka Bazaar, an outdoor and biggest bazaar in Turkmenistan. Anything from food, spare parts to camels are sold there. It would take days to walk the bazaar. An elderly man in white beard cladded in traditional Turkmen overall and black sheepskin telpek hat buys from a vegetable seller.
Carpets from all parts of Turkmenistan, on sale in the bazaar.
Women cladded in typical Turkmen dresses and overalls selling silverware.
Turkmen overalls
"Yakka", a part of the Turkmen women's traditional dress
Selling pieces of banana in the bazaar. Each banana costed 7000 manat (around US$0.35)
Salad store
Selling cloths and rugs
The 75m Arch of Neutrality. On top of the Arch stands a revolving golden statue of President Niyazov. The statue would revolve according to the sun's direction.
With Aunty Leh Mee and her driver, Sabril (of Kazak origin) at the "5-legs" fountain building. It is said to be the largest fountain in the world. A statue of President Niyazov is erected infront of the fountain.
Infront of the Petronas Carigali Ashgabat office with the Malaysian staffs stationed there. These were the overseas Malaysians who took us in, sheltered us, fed us and tried to assist us in anyway they could, especially during our frustrative visa matters with the local authorities.
With Azahar's family on the day of departure. As in similar fashion on the day we arrived in Ashgabat, Azahar led us in his car, this time, out of Ashgabat.
Posted by a2e at January 30, 2005 06:11 PM
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January 28, 2005
Year of the Rooster
Coming Feb 9th will be the most important day on the Chinese calendar - Chinese New Year! A time for family reunion, rejoice and the start of our new year.
From our first Chinese meal in Finland to Hungary's mooncakes, Sofia's restaurant nights, Turkey's stay with the chefs and Georgia's wholesalers, we have come across many overseas Chinese who have extended a helping hand to us along the way.
For many of them, the priority is to earn as much as possible, some to support families back in China, others to grab the opportunity to see the world while still young and able.
Chinese New Year, however, carries a different meaning for these overseas Chinese. One Chinese friend once quoted, "Year (nian) is easy to pass as it is only 1 day. To go through day by day is actually the most difficult part!"
For some of them, celebrating the Lunar New Year maybe just a simple get-together dinner with their friends. For many, it is just another day on their calendar, sweating out in the restaurant's kitchen or engaging in the wholesale business where time is as important as money.
For us, well ... we maybe on the road, somewhere out there. Nevertheless, on this auspicious day, our sincere wishes to all the Chinese friends overseas ...
"GOOD HEALTH AND PROSPERITY IN THE YEAR OF THE ROOSTER!"
p/s: And not forgetting our friends and families back home or somewhere out there, "Treasure the golden opportunity to reunite, rejoice and to reflect ... HAPPY CHINESE NEW YEAR!"
Posted by a2e at January 28, 2005 08:32 PM
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Happy New Year, guys!
Posted by: Jenny at January 29, 2005 02:12 PM
hi guys,
a2e will be turning 6 mths old on 2rd Feb 05..wow! yes indeed, apart from enjoying the festive season of CNY, let's reflect on the true meaning of the most celebrated festival for chinese. meanwhile, hope 2005 will be an ever more fulfilling yr for a2e!
pedal on and Gong Xi Fa Cai, Lu Shang Xiao Xin!
~a2e~ Making A Dream Reality ~a2e~
Posted by: clarrie at January 28, 2005 11:18 PM
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January 25, 2005
Kurban Bayram
Kurban bayram is one of the Muslim holy days, Feast of Sacrifice or Festival of pilgrimage, celebrated over 3 days in Turkmenistan. In Malaysia, we know it as Hari Raya Haji. Eid ul-Adha (Arabic: عيد الأضحى) is second in the series of Eid festivals that Muslims celebrate.
(Turkmenistan ... 09.01.05 to 10.02.05)
With the police at the Ashgabat capital border checkpoint. We were surprised that the police initiated the photo taking session. We were told before to be careful of what we photographed on the road, especially near military or police sites. Police checkpoints are very common in Turkmenistan. At certain checkpoints, we even had to register with the police.
At Carymyrat's place in Herrikgala. Carymyrat was the truck driver who had invited us to his place 5 days ago in that dessert cafe. We had managed to arrive just in time for the Kurban bayram celebration at his place.
Carymyrat catching one of his sheeps for slaughter. It was his family's turn to host the Kurban bayram lunch the next day. A sheep would be slaughtered by each family during the Kurban bayram.
Skinning the sheep. As in muslim practice, the throat was first sliced with the reciting of Koran verse and the sheep would bleed to death. For those who do not use the sheep skin, it would be sold to others for US$1.
Removing the organs and disintersecting the whole sheep. The whole slaughtering process lasted 35mins.
Mutton stew cooked in a big pot with all the mutton fats. The family woke up at 7am to prepare for the Kurban lunch.
Baking choret (bread) in tamdyr, a clay stove. Freshly baked choret are always the most tasty!
Finally, the brothers and relatives of Carymyrat at the Kurban bayram lunch.
The ladies and children were seated in another room, eating separately from the guys.
Posted by a2e at January 25, 2005 06:10 PM
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January 20, 2005
Frying and swinging ...
Days before the Kurban Bayram, villagers were already busy with preparations. We got a chance to witness some of the frying and swinging ...
(Turkmenistan ... 09.01.05 to 10.02.05)
Frying 'kokun', a local pastry from flour. The pastries can come in different shapes and sizes, in different names. The ladies were frying in preparation for the coming Kurban bayram. The frying was done outdoors, with gas supplied stoves.
Sean lending a hand to the making of kokun.
Preparing the food for the sheeps which would be returning from grazing in the evening. Mowli (in middle), our host in St.Kodj has 420 sheeps, 20 cows and 40 acres of land on which he grows wheat and cotton. He is also a school teacher in the day.
The shepherd's boy, returning on his donkey.
The Hanow brothers and their families. Sean was fully dressed with Turkmen white sheepskin hat and a sheep skin's jacket. A fox skin laid beside me. The fox was just killed that day by the shepherd's dog.
A calf was born that night when we were there. The mother cow licking the newly born calf, still unable to stand.
In St.Arcman village. Shihi works as the gas supply mechanic stationed in the village. He gets paid for around US$40/month. Gas, electric and water supply are free of charge in Turkmenistan. It is the only country we know so far that gives her people free consumption of the utilities.
With the Shihi family before we left. It was pouring again ...
Aman showing us black and white reprints of his ancestors in Han-Kariz village. Aman's great, great, great grandfather was a Han (Lord or equivalent to King) of the Ahal and Mary region in the 1880s, occupying almost 1/3 of current Turkmenistan land. He eventually settled in Han-Kariz village which was named after him.
The thick walls of his >100 years old house. The >50cm thick walls were made of soil hardened by the steppings of horses during the old days. Even a normal nail could not penetrate the wall easily.
The BAT (pronounced "Ba-t"), a big swing with a wooden plank tied across. It is customary to play and swing the BAT during Kurban bayram. Swinging the BAT has something in relation to the teachings of the Koran, as it seemed. Almost every village would have 1 BAT, beautifully decorated during the Kurban bayram period.
Posted by a2e at January 20, 2005 06:09 PM
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« Of Camels and Dokmak | Main | Frying and swinging ... »
January 18, 2005
Desert crossing
Lunch under a bridge (the only one) along the most desserted stretch of road across this desert. We had to shield from the sweeping wind and sand under the bridge in order to eat our bread and oranges. That day in fact was the most exhaustive day as the sweeping wind reduced our pace to a pathetic 10km/h or even less. It took us 7hrs of painstaking ride to cover 75km. By the time we reached the only 2 cafes on that road, it was already nightfall!
(Turkmenistan ... 09.01.05 to 10.02.05)
For the 1st time in our journey so far, we had to sleep in a cafe/motel and for a fee. That night we had rabbit meat for dinner. (picture) The owner holding on to the rabbit's head and body for a photo. The head was already decapitated from the body.
Kafe Culan, where we spent a night in the windy dessert. The owner of the truck in picture had invited us to his place during the Kurban Bayram period. His house was around 350km away, near to Ashgabat. Can we reach his place in time for the Kurban Bayram celebration? Judging by the strong opposing wind then, it was really difficult to say. Stay tuned for the outcome ...
Camel feeding and milking in Uzynsuw village. The mother camel produces 2L of milk in addition to her calf's feeding.
Dinner with the 4 Arjikow brothers - plov and camel char, a yogurt type of drink from camel's milk. It was a coincidence that day that all the brothers were in the house as they were attending and helping in a friend's wedding, right AFTER DINNER.
The bride and groom sitting on a stage, in a typical Turkmen wedding.
The open space infront of the couple's stage where the villagers would be dancing to the tunes of Turkmen musics. The band and MC stage is in the background, brightly lit.
Cooking for everyone in the wedding celebration. One of the main dish was rice and we even had watermelons!
A villager proudly showing a 'cleaned' sheep's skull that they had just finished eating. TUrkmen vodka (40%) was widely drunk throughout the wedding. 2 things to keep warm in a winter outdoor wedding - either you dance or you drink. Only the guys drank alcohols. For both of us, we neither dance nor drink so after standing and watching the wedding celebrations for a while, we were already shivering ... brrr ...
2 villagers on the way to sell their kece - another kind of carpet made by hand pressing and rolling camel fur stripes with water for around 2hrs.
Maksat pouring the dried and fried form of tobacco - nash. The locals will put a small amount of nash under their tongue. After some time it would be spat out. According to them, it is quite 'high'. These kind of nash can also be seen in other Central Asia countries.
Tuwakgylc holding a newly born pigeon. He breeds these beautiful pigeons for sale to other bird owners.
The children playing under their outdoor 'house'. From spring onwards, they will sometimes eat outside on this wooden platform. In the summer nights when it is too hot to sleep indoors, that will be their bed. Every house has 1 such wooden platform.
The 3 kids of Tuwakgylc, tending to their sheeps which just returned from grazing.
With the family at dinner. Notice the carpet hanging in the background. Such hanging of carpets on walls can be seen in almost every house that we visited in Turkmenistan.
That, is the toilet, shared among the surrounding houses. As in other countries so far, it is the typical 'pit system' type of toilet. In the night, everywhere can be toilet, for the guys.
Posted by a2e at January 18, 2005 06:08 PM
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January 17, 2005
Of Camels and Dokmak
Beware of CAMELS!
(Turkmenistan ... 09.01.05 to 10.02.05)
Handade looking at our Malaysia Ringgit. We had to tackle cold rains, sweeping wind and 80km of almost desert stretch of road before arriving at our 1st Turkmen village, Belek. We were totally drenched and shivering by the time we managed to find a roof for the night.
Handade's son, Elyas having breakfast before school. Typical Turkmen style of eating on the floor. Notice the embriodered cap on Elyas' head. Every children wears such cap to school and the embrodiery patterns differ according to tribes and regions.
Outside their house with Handade's eldest son who will be leaving for Turkey to play football in Turkey's famous club, Fernabache! Maybe he will turn out to be the next soccer star!
Oops, did not expect that our 1st encounter with a camel would be a DEAD one! Wonder if it was a victim of hit and run ... 8-(
Deserts and camels, they seem to be inseparable. True to the saying, we really came face to face with camels on the road. It was our 1st sighting of a camel in this journey. More to come!
We met Suleyman along the way to Jebel village. He was on his motorbike, scouting for his camels which were grazing somewhere in the desert. Only a brief conversation later, he invited us back to his house for the night!
Aman, Suleyman's best friend and a goldsmith by living.
Turkmen traditional dish - plov, a dish of rice cooked in oil with carrots and meat. We had camel meat that night! 1kg of camel meat costs around US$1.
With Suleyman's family in front of their Kamaz truck that is used often to transport their camels, some grazing as far as 30km away in the desert.
"These were the 4 cyclists that visited our house in 1994." Murat showing us the black and white photo of 4 russian cycle-touring cyclists when we approached him for our lunch break. The russians had posted that photo to him after their return to Russia.
A photo session with his truck and Lada after lunch. After we return home, we would post this photo to him to add to his collection. Maybe another 10 years later he will be able to show them to another cyclists on the road. *grin*
On the wind swept road out of Balkanabt. We have been cycling along such long desert road and in opposing wind ever since from Turkmenbashi. The Balkan mountain range lies in the background.
A Turkmen paying respects to Sean? We met Alyos while riding into Gumdag village. He approached us and offered to help. When we asked about the road to Ashgabat, Alyos began drawing the way out of Gumdag on the sand. Before leaving, he actually invited us to his place for the night. Wow, really cannot believe the luck and the people we have bumped into so far ... *blink*
We came to know of a Chinese oil company nearby from Alyos and decided to pay a visit. China National Petroleum Corp. (CNPC) has been drilling oil in Gumdag for 4 years already. There were only 4 staffs left at the Gumdag base as the rest had returned to China for the coming Spring festival, the Chinese New Year.
We had a surprise when we stepped into Alyos' mother's house - her daughter and niece were weaving carpets! Dokmak (carpet in Turkmen language) weaving is almost a household skill in Gumdag and many villages in Turkmenistan. The ladies weave carpet and sell to earn extra income for their family, especially in the winter.
A 1m x 0.5m carpet completed. The ladies making the finishing touches on the other carpet. Each lady takes around 5-7 days to weave a 1m x 0.5m carpet, selling to the bazaars at only, US$12.
We did not see Alyos until the next morning just before we were about to depart. (picture) With the weaving ladies and Alyos in their house compound.
Posted by a2e at January 17, 2005 06:07 PM
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January 16, 2005
TURKMENBASHI
Previously known as "Krasnovodsk" in the Soviet days, this little port city was once a Soviet military base. Today, it has been renamed as "Turkmenbashi" - Head of Turkmen, a title given to their President. Turkmenbashi port city has since become a summer beach resort, flocked by Turkmens every summer.
(Turkmenistan ... 09.01.05 to 10.02.05)
Malaysia ASSAM and RICE! 2300hrs, 9/Jan, our 1st host and 1st dinner in Turkmenistan. Zul, a fellow Malaysian, works for Petronas Carigali in their Supply Base in Turkmenbashi.
Outside Petronas Carigali Supply Base with ALL the Malaysians working there. Besides Zul, the rest of the Malaysians were sub-contractors working for Petronas' offshore rig in Caspian sea.
Another rare treat of Malaysia meal, specially cooked by the Weatherford guys! A mixture of indian and malay crusine ... *slurps*
The view from Kuwat's house, which sits on a hill overlooking the Caspian sea.
At Kuwat's house for 'tea' (Kuwat is Zul's personal driver). Looking at the spread of food, one would think we were there for lunch!
After 2 days, 3 nights in Turkmenbashi dealing with our tourist registration (OVIR), we finally hit the road on 12/Jan. It was just a day after a typhoon alert in Turkmenbashi when we began our virgin ride on Central Asia soil, on the Great Silk Road.
Posted by a2e at January 16, 2005 06:06 PM
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January 15, 2005
A Tale of Two Cities
January 7th midnight, we left Baku bound for Turkmenistan on a ferry across the Caspian Sea. We only stepped on Central Asia soil on Jan 9th. The unforgettable ordeal to cross the Caspian Sea started from Azerbaijan soil ...
***WARNING***
Be prepared for hours of reading and sleepless nights. Do not attempt to continue reading if you are working or in some internet cafes. We do not hold any responsibilities should you get fired or have to pay high internet charges for l o n g hours of internet usage! *grin*
Baku, Azerbaijan's capital
We spent a week in Baku, sourcing for ferry services across the Caspian Sea to Turkmenbashi, a port city in western Turkmenistan. The lack of tourist traffic (and political reasons) across the Caspian Sea between the 2 cities led to a monopolised ferry service situation in Baku. With the assistance of our newfound friends in Caspian Shipyard, we finally managed to secure ferry tickets for the Jan 7th night. The tickets for 2 persons & 2 bicycles costed us US$230 - unbelievable cut-throat prices! Nobody could (or wanted) to explain to us how the US$230 was derived, except that it seemed to have some connection to the length of our bicycles. But why and how 2 units of 1.8m bicycles would cost so much for an insignificant space in a ferry left us dumbfounded and frustrated.
Jan 7th, 2300h, we bid farewell to our friends and rode to the Baku Port Customs. At the 1st customs post, I submitted the passports to a Customs Officer. After some data entries, he turned to me, holding on to the passports and made an astonishing request.
"US$5 for each of you. 2 of you, US$10. Give me and no problem." he demanded in Azerli language.
I was stunned. It was our 1st time in a bribery situation so far in our journey. In broken Azerli language, I tried to explain that we have no money left as we are leaving Azerbaijan (soon)... we did not carry so much cash on hand as we only withdraw from banks in next cities ... we are on a 1 1/2yr low-budget trip to home ... blah blah blah.
The Officer simply brushed aside all my reasonings and repeated his demand. I attempted again, putting up a more desperate face but the Officer simply act blur, shoke his head and repeated his demand, again and again. All my attempts failed. The Officer must had several experiences before. That time, I was really clueless.
"Should I give him? If not, how and what to do?" I tossed over again and again in my mind but without any conclusion. I turned to look at Sean who was guarding our bicycles outside the post.
At that moment, a middle-aged Officer walked into the post. He was the Officer whom we have "befriended" several days ago when we came to the port for ticket enquiries. He knew about our travelling plans, our frustration with the monopolised & cut-throat ferry tickets situation. I grabbed him by the arm and threw my desperations at him.
"We have no money (left). The ferry tickets are so expensive. Where to find US$10 now?
What happened next completely caught me by surprise. He looked at the Officer sitting inside the booth, holding on to our passports. Almost instantly, he pulled out some Azerli bills from his wallet and THREW them into the booth!
The Officer cheekily picked up the scattered bills from the table and showed them to me - Azerli manats equivalent to US$10!
"This is US$10. You don't have?" he sacarstically remarked as he returned our passports to me.
I turned and expressed my gratitude to the Officer who had helped us. He muttered a few words and gestured us to go to the gantry.
We pushed our bikes to the "2nd station" - the Customs inspection office. The Officers standing outside looked at the bikes and beckoned us to enter the room. They pointed to a seemingly new X-ray machine and told us to strip all our panniers and put them through the machine!
Sean immediately started reasoning with them. He led the Officers to the bikes and tried to show them that the panniers were firmly attached to the bikes. Removing and installing would be an uphill task. However they kept insisting on removing the panniers. One Officer asked if we had bombs and guns, we angrily told them we were tourists, not terrorists! Another Officer asked if we were checked in other countries. When we replied that we had no problems so far, they laughed that maybe the other countries did not have X-ray machines.
Sean then went into the office with the Officers again, this time to see their Chief. Together they went outside to see the bikes. Once again, Sean demonstrated in despair the problematic tasks of removing our panniers. But the Chief merely shoke his head and strongly insisted on removing the panniers.
The Chief then asked to see the things inside Sean's panniers. Without hesitation, Sean immediately opened and swiftly took out the contents, opening the various bags and plastics to show him - food, medicine, repair kits, clothings, etc. As he showed each item, he spoke and threw actions in the air in a bid to be as "detailed" as possible. The Chief pointed to another pannier and Sean again took out the contents and started similar explanations to the stuffs, what they were for, demonstrating as he spoke.
The Chief looked at the things, made a few more enquiries, looked at the rest of the panniers again (we have 8 panniers + 3 bags altogether), muttered a few words and then walked to his office. We were unsure of his verdict. We looked at the junior officers and they gestured us to go, GO! It had worked! Sean's persistence and cooperation had paid off.
Last checkpoint. The ferry was in sight, in fact the ramp was just infront of the office. We submitted our passports, again. The young officers told us they would stamp our passports there and gestured us to enter their office. As they flipped through the passports, they started asking questions - where did we start? Where are we going? Who finance our trip? How long? blah blah blah. Even their Chief also joined in the conversation. We joked and laughed with them while keeping an eye on the officer who was doing data entries. Finally the officer stamped our passports (to our relief) and handed them back to us. We continued joking and laughing for a few rounds with them before finally leaving the office. Handshakes, thank yous and "Good road! Best wishes to Malaysia and families!" from the officers, we were out of the last Customs office.
Pushing our bikes towards the ferry, some men were waving and signalling to us to speed up. Once inside the lower deck where there were trucks and rail carriages, we were immediately surrounded by men who tried to converse with us in russian. One man started asking US$5 from us for safeguarding our bicycles in the lower deck.
The lower deck was very spacious. Comparing to the space available and the size of our bicycles, I really felt cheated for the money we paid for "parking" our bicycles in the ferry. We refused to pay the so-called US$5 of safeguarding fee, citing reasons of no money as we had given to Customs Officers in the port previously.
An older men who seemed to be a crew asked for our ticket. When he saw that our ticket was for "seats" only (Yes, US$230 is not even with cabin ... really miserable), he asked if we wanted cabin. Perviously when we bought the ticket, the operator had told us to give to the Captain US$10 and a cabin could be arranged for us to sleep. Normal price for a cabin of 2 would be additional US$100, according to the ticket seller.
I gave the US$10 to the old man and asked him for a cabin. He looked at the US$10 and laughed, asking for US$20 instead. I told him what the ticket seller had told us and the old man simply laughed at us, citing that the seller was joking. I looked at him helplessly and explained that our money had been given to the port customs officers and we had no money left. Other crews and men surrounding us simply laughed. Just at that moment, a younger crew pulled us out of the crowd and gestured us to follow him. He brought us up the winding stairs, past the kitchen, through several cabins before arriving at a cabin on the starboard. It seemed to be a crew cabin, his cabin in fact. It had a bed, a sofa and a toilet with showers, enough for the 12hr Caspin Sea crossing. After showing us the room, he shut the door. We were finally alone, in peace.
It was 000h and the ferry had just started to leave Baku port ...
Turkmenbashi port city, Turkmenistan
We only arrived in Turkmenistan waters 15hrs later. However, the ferry was not able to berth due to other vessels in port. In addition, there were also other vessels in queue too. We were told that the earliest we can enter port might be the NEXT DAY!
We were stranded on sea and on the miserable ferry. We were restricted in our movements on board the ferry, having been warned by some crew. Time never passed so slow before. As darkness fall, we could only stare helplessly at the flickering lights of the land so near yet so far.
The next day there were news that we might be able to berth by 1200h. However, everything was as calm as before after 1200h, pin drop silence in fact. We had run out of bread after brunch and did not really fancy another night on the ferry.
Around 1700h, sounds of anchor pulling and engine running broke the silence. We were finally entering port! By the time the ferry berthed, it was already after 1900h. We were led out of the ferry by a senior customs officer with our passports with him. When we met him, we were asked if we had visas and we explained that Malaysians can enter Turkmenistan for 30 days without visa and our purpose was for "sport". He did not comment but gestured us to follow him to the Customs building. We crossed our fingers hoping for a smooth entry into Turkmenistan as we pushed the bikes into the building.
Inside the seemingly new Customs building, the Senior Officer was working on his PC and making some calls. He looked troubled. Turning to us, he said,"You have only 14 days as tourists in Turkmenistan without visa."
We were shocked. From Turkmen's embassy in Turkey, we understood that Malaysians have 30 days without visa requirements in Turkmen. The embassy even rejected our request for visa application then.
We explained what we gathered in Turkey but the senior officer insisted that his 1994 dated info was the only one available. He did not have any of the 1999 dated info that we saw in Turkey. Furthermore, he could not register us as "sports" because we did not have any official document from Malaysia or Turkmenistan's sports authorities. (Note: If we are able to register as "sports" in the reason for entry to Turkmen, we can get 3 months without visa in Turkmen.)
To make things worse, he told us that as we had to register in Ashgabat's Immigration Centre within 3 DAYS. To travel >600km within 3 DAYS to the capital by bikes? It was absolute nonsense and totally defeated our purpose of travel in Turkmenistan! @#$!@%^#!!
"We are on bicycles, not cars. How can we travel to Ashgabat in 3 days?"
"Maybe we will take 14 days to travel to Ashgabat!"
Irregardless of how we argued and reasoned with the senior officer, he still stick to his view. As a matter of fact, he was merely following the law and available data at that point. He suggested us to approach their Immigration Dept in the port city the next day for further assistance. With this, he stamped our passport and indicated on our entry card as "T O U R I S T".
By the time the commotion ended, it was already 2200h Turkmen time (Turkmenistan is 1hr later than Azerbaijan). We were totally drained and hungry. Our last solution ... to make a phone call to a Petronas personnel working in the Turkmenbashi.
The Customs officers helped us to connect the number we got from Petronas Ashgabat office.
"Hello, is this Mr.Mohd Khairizul?" Sean spoke over the phone.
"We are the 2 Malaysian cyclists. Sorry to trouble you at this late hour ... Yes ... Yes ... er ... we are now at the Port Customs ... Yes ... yes ... Oh ... Thank you."
Sean turned to me after he hung up the phone.
"They are coming to pick us up."
For the first time since leaving Baku port, our faces were beaming with joy. Shortly after we cleared the customs inspection (they merely requested us to fill in "No", "No", "No" to a form, declaration of money we bought into Turkmenistan and asked a few questions. No dismantle of panniers.), an Indian man appeared outside the Port Customs.
"WELCOME, WELCOME! Im Ilias. Come, let's go to the Petronas Supply Base to store your bikes. Then we will go to Zul's house. Tonight, you will stay at his place."
We rode around 700m to the supply base, stored the bikes in a container and went with Ilias and his driver in their car. Within minutes, we were in the port city.
You cannot imagine how delighted and relieved we were when we stepped inside Zul's house. It was liked a meeting of old friends, familar faces and unmistakable voices.
Most surprising of all, a hot meal of Malaysian assam, fried vegetables and rice was waiting for us ...
That, was how we landed on Central Asia soil. The Baku port customs night encounter left a mark on us. However, we can never forget the Azerbaijan people we met along the 542km road leading to Baku, the people who seems to live on the code of hospitality.
Our US$10 cabin, just behind the ship's control room, previously the room of a crew.
"Dagestan", the 21-yrs old ferry that costed us a bomb to travel across the Caspian Sea. The ferry is among 6 others that travel across the sea 'almost daily' transporting cargo. In her peak days during the Soviet era, she used to ferry hundreds of tourists between Baku and Krasnovodsk (currently known as Turkmenbashi).
With some of the crews, the only kind and approachable souls on board.
A ferry leaving Turkmenbashi port. It was finally our chance to enter the port after 1-1/2 day of waiting in the Turkmen sea.
Posted by a2e at January 15, 2005 10:03 PM
Comments
hey yo sean!!!
It's ya birthday todae!!! Happy Birthday!!! May all you wishes come true...
ya mama also want to send you her best wishes...take good care!!!
best best regards,
dunlin : Þ
Posted by: dunlin : Þ at April 9, 2005 12:00 AM
uncle yongxuan
happy birthday to shu shu! happy bbbbbbbbbbirthday i love yo!i like you so much!
happy birthday to shu shu
next time you sing with me happy birthday
from yinling yyl
Posted by: yyl at April 8, 2005 09:43 PM
xiao shu,
happy birthday to you!
from coco jay jay
Posted by: coco jay jay at April 8, 2005 09:19 PM
Glad you all managed to make it through safely... Can't imagine what would have happened if they really made you unload all your stuff into the x-ray machines!
Take care ya.. and keep safe!
Posted by: Jill at April 8, 2005 01:55 AM
Harlo xuan:
Happy birthday to you. Hope to see you soon if not u might have to find me in France. All the best to you and see cya safe and sound.
Posted by: Zuyong at April 7, 2005 07:03 PM
Yo Yo !!!! Mr Sean....
Happy Birthday In Advance........
ONe wish have come true so more to come........ Keep going and
Mr Tan...... do give him a big peck on his cheek.... Take Good CAre.....
Posted by: Jeff Tan at April 7, 2005 01:03 PM
yo man!
got your post card and i must say that i'm very glad to know that you still able to write to me from such a far away country!
bribery eh... the probability of hitting a corrupted officer with a throw of a stone increases exponentialy once inside asia!
take care bro!!
Posted by: nick at April 5, 2005 01:01 PM
this is what makes you a traveller, not just a tourist! it's trials like that you will revel people back home with. Good showing, Ah bee and SK!
Posted by: jac at March 31, 2005 02:22 AM
hi, SK san. thank you for yr post card! this morning Aki is still sleeping, so i will enjoy yours from now on... pls take care, both of you.
Posted by: Haru at March 28, 2005 08:09 AM
*Chanting* Updates,updates,updates!? More heartwarming stories or funny encounters ya?..cos that means u guys r well n safe too..ride safely o!
Posted by: Xiaomei at March 26, 2005 04:58 AM
hey hey yo a2e....
how's the journey n the roads???.....keep ya wheel n will going okie???.....take good care ya!!!.......hear from you real soon.....stay safe!!!
best best regards,
dunlin : Þ
Posted by: dunlin : Þ at March 24, 2005 10:58 PM
Guys,unfortunately not being able to meet up with you in Almaty as suppose to.....now back in Spore. However, our M'sian friends should be able making you guys as comfortable as possible when you in Almaty........have fun
Posted by: Daniel at March 20, 2005 10:25 AM
Wow, what an ordeal you all went through... There are just some people in the world who don't really spare a thought for other people. Lucky everything turned out fine in the end.
Posted by: akari at March 11, 2005 11:10 AM
Woah. I'll read when I have time ya?
Just a suggestion, you guys have soo many pics. Why not put them up on Flickr and give them tags of countries/cities? They'll be awesome.
Besides, the pics can thus be hosted from Flickr.
Cheers!
Posted by: Keat at March 8, 2005 01:52 PM
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« The Caspian Sea & ... Baku | Main | A Tale of Two Cities »
January 06, 2005
New found friends from CSC
I believe the people who painted this big sign that we so happen to spot along the road never could have imagine the help it has rendered to us.
We ended up been invited for lunch in CSC's canteen. And what a lunch it was - 2 pieces of meat, vegetables and big servings of rice with soup and salad, not forgetting the mandarin oranges and drinks. The CSC employees were indeed very well fed!
Baku's oil fields, more than a hundred years old and among the oldest oil fields in the world. Even though rich in history and oil, the oil fields did not generate world attention until Hollywood came into picture. Well, they did not come to drill oil for sure. A few minutes of the James Bond film "The World is not enough" was shot on location! Can anyone recall that scene from the movie???
For almost a week, we put up with YC Liew, the Project Manager, in his City Mansion. While his colleagues, KC Leong & KP Low, painstakingly helped us to source for a vessel to cross the Caspian Sea. Other than being a fellow countryman, we have no family nor employment relationships yet the care, support and friendship we've received from them have been more than expected! Thanx guys! We couldn't have asked for more ... especially Tracy 'drunken chicken' *wink*
In their apartment, the President of CSC, Bill & his wife, Alicia, played host. We had dinner (quoted "the best cooking in Baku"), karaoke (quoted "the best singer") and showcase to an extraordinary art gallery.
A tiger in Baku? This has been brilliantly painted by Alicia. Among her other works, there are a number of dogs, cats, a few rabbits, a couple of frogs and beetles, an owl, plenty of buildings and many more! Amazing! Simply incredible ... she is totally self-taught!
This is the last view our friends saw of us, leaving for the pier ... darkness awaits in silence ...
Posted by a2e at January 6, 2005 07:12 PM
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« 2004 ... 2005 | Main | New found friends from CSC »
January 06, 2005
The Caspian Sea & ... Baku
The Caspian Sea! Even though we barely parted with the Black Sea not so long ago, seeing the sea again still created that surge of excitement over us. Standing on the beach, looking across the horizon ... thoughts ran of home and of the distant land across the sea, Central Asia! But before embarking on the silk road, we had to head first to Baku, "City of Wind" and the oil capital of Azerbaijan ...
(Azerbaijan ... 14.12.04 to 7.1.2005)
The spread of food and champagne you see on the table was not some feast. We approached Faik's house in Sixlar village after buying bread to have our lunch. However, we were denied of our bread and treated to a spread of New Year food! During lunch, we were even asked to stay for the night at his place. What a pleasant start to the New Year! 8-)
Out for a shooting session with Faik, his brother-in-law and friend, Murat at the Caspian Sea coast. During the spring and summer seasons, they will frequent the coastline regularly for birds shooting. The coastline is in fact just a few minutes drive from their house.
"There are alot of Chinese here. Maybe 100!"
We were surprised to learn of such a big presence of Chinese workers near Faik's worksite. (Picture) With the Chinese employees of "Sheng Li Group". Sheng Li's investment at that area is mainly in oil. The Chinese workers have high praises for the Azerbaijan people, "Though they are poor, the people have very good character, often exhibiting friendliness and hospitality irregardless of who they meet ..."
With Faik's colleagues in their tea house at their soil excavation worksite. The soil digging and tranportation are on-going for 24hrs daily. Each excavator works 4 days, rest 4 days per shift and can earn up to US$100/day if 40 Kamaz trucks can be filled with soil for brick making.
Hot Water!! But it comes with a high price. Every month, Faik is footing almost US$40 for their family's usage of electricity and gas. Without the current soil excavation job that Faik has worked for 13yrs, it is definitely impossible for their family to enjoy such luxury.
With our host, Faik and his family. His sister's family were also around for the New Year occasion.
Our last Azerli host on the outskirts of Baku city. Aslan and his family are also refugees in their own land, been driven out from Karabakh region 13 years ago due to the Azerbaijan & Armenia war. For 6 years, they had been living in refugee camps and it was only 7 years ago did they move to the current site near Baku. The government provides them free water, gas and electricity and a minimal allowance per head monthly.
Aslan's 4 units house used to be a Sports hall in the park during the Soviet times. It is still the only 'residential compound' in the park. The units were either part of the Sports hall or containerised homes. Only the kitchen (part of the hall) had a gas supplied stove. As the house sat on the hilly park facing the Caspian Sea (Yes, one can simply glance from his house the magnificient coastline and beautiful sunset), it was very prone to the sea wind that swept Baku coastline continuously. During the night, the planks and metal sheets around his house just kept banging and slapping non-stop due to the gale ...
Aslan's 57 years old father, Vazir. He is the sole breadwinner in the family, a taxi driver in Baku city. (Picture) Vazir with his 20 years old Lada, still looking brand new and in good condition!
Well, well, well, what a surprise! We were riding towards Baku city when a Kamaz truck horned us frm opposite lane. It was Murat, good friend of Faik, our host 2 days ago! Murat was on his way home after transporting soil to the brick factory around Baku when he spotted us. His Kamaz truck is in the background.
Guess who we met? Malaysian workers in Baku! (Picture) Speaking to some Malaysians outside Caspian Shipyard (CSC). We had the contact of CSC from our embassy in Turkey previously so we decided to pop by for a visit. We were thrilled to meet so many Malaysians there, even Singaporeans, Chinese, Pakistanis and Indians!
More on Baku and our new found friends from CSC coming up ... in the later months ... *grin*
Posted by a2e at January 6, 2005 06:12 PM
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« On the road quiz # 01 | Main | The Caspian Sea & ... Baku »
January 06, 2005
2004 ... 2005
The new year is approaching. We have previously been requested several times to stay longer in other hosts' houses in order to celebrate the coming of 2005. However, (and unfortunately) we had to turned down the offers, not any fault of the hosts but due to the distance we were from Baku at that time, the unknown ferry schedule and the validity of our visas.
New year in the end, was celebrated in a little village some 100km away from Baku, the capital.
(Azerbaijan ... 14.12.04 to 7.01.2005)
With the kids who brought us to this "mansion". Our 1st attempt with another household earlier resulted in the possibility of staying in a motel instead. Even though the earlier host insisted on paying, we had to decline the offer. We left in the late evening, braving the cold to start searching again. We met these kids outside their house. However, we could not put up at their place as their father was not at home. Instead, they brought us to this "mansion". We found out later that it was in fact the house of Qarasu village's Head! The kids were his grandsons.
A red cloth tied over the gate, symbolising the celebration of a joyful event. This was the house of Baybala in Atbulag village. They had recently celebrated their adopted son's circumcising, a grand event held in the manner alike a wedding.
Gulsam, Baybala's wife, making yayima coret, a very thin bread. Though we had eaten similar kind of this bread in Turkey before, it was our 1st time to witness the making. Yayima coret is also more frequently eaten in that area than the normal round bread popular in rest of the country.
Gulsam cleaning a chicken (just slaughtered by a neighbour) in preparation for the New Year dinner. 2005 New Year? Yes! we were invited to stay over 31st Dec at Baybala's house to celebrate the coming of the 2005. Gulsam started since the morning preparing the food, from minced meat wrapped with grape leaves (yagma dolmasi) to boiled/stewed chicken and fried rice. Hungry? Dinner's 9hrs later. *wink*
Baybala's nieces and adopted son decorating the hall for the New Year
Finally, dinner is approaching! *slurps* Gulsam distributing the chicken and fried rice in her kitchen.
With Baybala's family at the 2005 New Year dinner. The couple made a great effort to host the dinner; preserved tomatoes, cucumbers, preserved plum syrup and fruits were brought out just for the event. Even the cooking oil, rice and champagne were "bought" from the grocery store on credit.
Happy 2005! A shot with the family on the 1st day of 2005. A wonderful dinner, peaceful night and great hospitality, we crossed over to a new year in Azerbaijan!
Posted by a2e at January 6, 2005 06:07 PM
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« Disastrous waves ... | Main | 2004 ... 2005 »
January 05, 2005
On the road quiz # 01
Hey guys! We've found out a few surprising things along this journey. heehee ... want to make a guess for the findings?
1. Which has been the most mentioned country's name by us & locals?
2. Which word has been the most universally understood (accepted)? eg. 'Hello' can be used almost everywhere as a form of greetings.
3. The most famous Chinese actor.
4. The most expensive tropical fruit.
5. The craziest enquiry about our travel.
Posted by a2e at January 5, 2005 08:18 PM
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Hey Guys! Just want to intro you to this free service for managing your photos http://www.flickr.com
It can facilitate your sharing and publishing of photos to your blog here.
Happy CNY!
Posted by: sunburnt at January 28, 2005 04:41 PM
Answers to you questions:
1. Singapore
2. 'Hi'
3. Jacky Chan
4. Durian
5. Are the two of you trying to get into the Book of Guiness?
Posted by: Fiona at January 28, 2005 05:44 AM
wats the answer la?!??!
Posted by: menglang at January 27, 2005 10:21 PM
orh...so strict ehhe..okok..
alrite, my response to question 5 is..mm..u guys have nothing better to do? kekeke.... :p
~a2e~ Making a dream reality ~a2e~
Posted by: clarrie at January 26, 2005 08:46 PM
Hmm ... some unexpected replies ... I'm impressed! never thot you guys have such wonderful imaginations! haha ...
wow ... so fast want us to release the answers??
Then we might run out of quiz qns soon u know?! hahaa ... wait a little while more lah :P
PLEASE ... no vularity in this webjournal. This is your 1st and last warning, menglang ... *grins*
erm ... ms clarriel, u not related to ms clarrie rite? just like to let you know that there were 5 qns in the quiz, please don't left any out.
Posted by: sean at January 25, 2005 03:20 PM
hey u guys!
glad to see another post after some time of silence...
hmmm... abt the most famous cheena actor, it's a tie between Bruce Lee and Jackie Chan i think. i get a lot of it, especially in Marocco. One guy actually came up to ask if I knew Bruce Lee. I said yeah, he was my grandad! ;P
your words hit home, about the reality of the tusnami victims vs. our own nitty gritties.
god speed and wind speed (behind u of corz!)
cheers!
Posted by: xixihaha jac at January 21, 2005 02:47 AM
faster release the answer leh.. *winks* :p
~a2e~ Making a dream reality ~a2e~
Posted by: clarrie at January 20, 2005 10:46 PM
hey hey yo.....a2e....
across caspian sea to central asia oredi???.....hope u guys are safe n sound n warm n strong.....keep us posted of ya news soon.....n we r still waiting for the answers for on the road quiz #01.....hope not some qian bian wen da ti....hehhehheee.......
best best regards,
dunlin : Þ
Posted by: dunlin : Þ at January 18, 2005 08:31 PM
1. Thailand
2. Fuck
3. Andy Lau
4. Pineapple
5. Are you guys on honeymoon?
I have a strong feeling i get all correct! haaa
Posted by: menglang at January 17, 2005 06:36 PM
yoyoyo!
so wat's the answers? and the next quiz? ;p
Take care! :)
Posted by: SQ at January 11, 2005 12:27 PM
1.) msia
2.) good morning
3.) chow yun fat
4.) banana
5.) you running away from law?
Posted by: Loos at January 10, 2005 10:37 AM
1. Singapore
2. Thank you
3. Bruce Lee
4. Durian
5. Why cycle? Why not walk instead?
Posted by: yOng at January 9, 2005 08:26 PM
yo yo yo.....
lemme try again....for the most expensive tropical fruit....lemme guess.....izzit queen of fruits ~ mangosteen???.......or izzit mango???.....hheheee......
best regards
Posted by: dunlin : Þ at January 8, 2005 04:29 PM
My turn!
1. Malaysia
2. OK
3. Jackie Chan
4. Durians???
5. Hmmm... I agree with Dunlin's gay question hahaa
Happy New Year! :)
Posted by: Liwei at January 8, 2005 04:05 AM
sean...haiyah...can't imagine why there would be tropical fruits there mah...anyhow hamtum.
durians? haha
Posted by: lishan at January 7, 2005 11:42 PM
alamak...finally gotta online proper after pc down for soooo long!! mm, let me try..
1) malaysia ka?
2) huh...
3) bruce lee?
4) jambu?
~a2e~ Making a dream reality ~a2e~
Posted by: clarriel at January 7, 2005 10:12 PM
Ooi! ... tropical fruits only! All those berries & grapes are meh?!
Posted by: sean at January 7, 2005 02:16 PM
Me wanna try too!!!
Finland/ Singapore
Bye!
Bruce Lee
Mangoes... :-)
Is it snowing in Singapore now?
Posted by: SQ at January 7, 2005 02:10 PM
hehehe.....lemme try.....got prize or not???
my wild guesses are :
1) malaysia...malaysia boleh!!!
2) bye...
3) bruce lee
4) strawberry
5) the females would ask : "are u single?"
the males would ask : "are both of u gay?"
hehehhehheeeee.......
all the way!!!!!a2e!!!!jiayou!!!!
Posted by: dunlin : Þ at January 7, 2005 01:26 AM
ok second try on the fruit. black berries? raspberries? blueberries? grapes?
umm..that's like 5 more tries... :x
Posted by: lishan at January 6, 2005 03:36 PM
erm ... haha ... sorry no brownie. In fact we haven't seen one in a long long time! BTW, pardon me, but which KEAT are you? :) wa kao??!!
ps. the cost of the fruit is relative to the places we've covered in this journey. Not the prices from home (M'sia/S'pore)
longan ... wow!! haven't seen one for a long while! but good try!! :P
Posted by: sean at January 6, 2005 02:05 PM
hahaha interesting. this is fun.
my guesses.
1. china? finland?
2. grazias?
3. jacky chan
4. hmm... longans?
5. how do u do your 'business'?
Posted by: lishan at January 6, 2005 12:33 AM
1. Malaysia
2. Wa kao
3. Maggie Cheung
4. Dunno, I don't shop
5. Are you guys terrorists?
better than nothing :-P do I get brownie for being first?
Posted by: Keat at January 6, 2005 12:20 AM
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« After Ganja ... into the works of man | Main | On the road quiz # 01 »
January 05, 2005
Disastrous waves ...
We were on the roads of Azerbaijan when we were told by the locals that our country has suffer an enormous earthquake! For the next few days, as we saw footage of the disaster on the local news (not knowing actually what has happened) we were totally shocked. Only 2 days ago that we've read more reports of the tsunami terror which has hit the regions near our homeland ...
To the people affected by the disastrous waves, keep on living and be strong. The world is with you. We're a survivor species. You will be the reminder and evidence of our human spirit!
To the people out of the tsunami affected regions (physically or emotionally), how much does your petty misery, dispute & stress from friends, loved ones, family and work weigh? Start counting your blessings!!
Posted by a2e at January 5, 2005 07:58 PM
Comments
yes... indeed it has been hitting the headlines and coffee tables for the past few weeks. a disaster of catastrophic magnitude. right now the death toll has reached an unbelievable number - and still counting. there are many people missing too.
one moving thing about this whole event, is the way people are coming forward to help other people. some of these stories are truly touching. i think reading your blog have the same effects too - the way some people you've met go out of their ways to help you.
keep writing.
Posted by: lishan at January 6, 2005 12:37 AM